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百達翡麗金鷹系列Nautilus全新改款,展現悠閒典雅的時計新形象
對一家擁有超過一百六十年歷史的錶廠而言,三十年的歷程並不算悠久。然而百達翡麗Patek Philippe今年卻盛大為旗下的Nautilus系列歡度三十周年慶,並全面改款推出嶄新鉅作,頗有承繼當年金鷹系列突破窠臼,再創另一個三十年腕錶時尚的氣勢。

「在所有世上最貴重的時計當中,有一只是由不鏽鋼製成的。」

時光推回到1976年,一支以不鏽鋼鍛造的高級腕錶問世,在保守的日內瓦錶界引發一陣騷動。寬42、厚7.6毫米的顯目錶身,加上非圓非方、仿效自輪船舷窗的八角型錶殼造型,耀眼的形狀打破一切的設計常規,令錶壇為之震撼。當時的高級腕錶依舊講究纖細超薄,錶殼材質也以貴金屬為主流,更常搭配K金鍊帶、鑲鑽的錶環和時標以添增尊貴氣派。突然間,這只大型鋼製腕錶乍現,定價甚至高於當時眾多貴金屬錶款,更令人震驚的是敢於破格的不是別人,正是備受業界尊崇的頂級品牌百達翡麗。More..






生命中的第二只Patek Philippe

百達翡麗總裁Philippe Stern後來證實,當年敢於摆脫腕錶的主流樣式並非冒險突進,反而是經過慎重評量的不凡策略。當時社會價值的典型正在改變,很多富裕人士在事業有成之餘,更積極投入各項休閒運動,他們揚帆出海、雪地馳騁,在球場上揮灑汗水。機芯嬌貴、錶殼易受刮傷的貴金屬款式,很難配合這群新世代熱愛運動,追求刺激動感的生活方式。高瞻遠矚的百達翡麗洞悉這樣的趨勢, Nautilus金鷹系列3700腕錶在1976年一推出就回響熱烈,不但迎合了客戶希望在名貴的金錶外,擁有一只堅固耐用的不鏽鋼腕錶的需要,更吸引了一批充滿活力的新世代客戶,金鷹系列突破傳統的風格也轉化為新時代的信念。「在所有世上最貴重的時計中,有一只是由不鏽鋼製成的」,這一句當年的廣告標語今日尤其凸顯出金鷹系列所代表的時代意義。




Nautilus 5711/1A


嶄新身形向經典概念致敬

百達翡麗今年一舉推出了六個Nautilus全新型號,包括38.4毫米的中型款式5800/1A、 43毫米的大型5711/1A,分別由不鏽鋼、玫瑰金以及白金製作的5712/1A、5712 –R、5712-W動力儲能月相顯示錶和44毫米的5980/1A計時碼錶。原創Nautilus最獨特的設計是它的錶殼採用雙層結構,錶身和底葢合而為一,由整塊金屬切割而成,所以能在當年就達成防水120公尺的驚人成就。由於現在的材料技術和鐘錶製程都更為先進,新款Nautilus改採用底葢、錶身與錶圈組成的三層結構,不但重現金鷹系列的經典錶殼,更擁有同樣堅固與防水出色的表現;同時也讓所有新款都能配置可透視藍寶石水晶玻璃後底葢,呈現獲有「日內瓦優質印記」的精美全自製機芯。不過,百達翡麗還是在大三針日期顯示的5800/1A錶款系列保留了原本雙層結構的特色,向1976年Nautilus的原創款式致敬。除此之外,新款腕錶保留了原有仿造自輪船舷窗的錶圈、加固鉸鏈以及錶身側面橫向延伸的護脊等設計。錶鏈部份稍經修改,原來筆直的設計變為略微拱型的效果,映照錶圈側緣的曲線,讓新款錶殼更添優雅。




5712R


玫瑰金皮帶款式,散發新鮮氣息

Nautilus舊款備有不鏽鋼、黃金、白金及鉑金款式可供選擇,而今年新款的5712大型腕錶則首度推出玫瑰金款式,也第一次搭配獨特的咖啡色錶面和鱷魚皮錶帶,以暖活的色調和精緻的性能設計相互輝映。一如既往,Nautilus的不鏽鋼款式搭配藍黑色錶面,白金款式則搭配著炭灰色錶面,藍黑色及啡碳色錶面經過精湛的塗漆技術營造出由中央向邊緣漸變的光暗效果,這是金鷹系列腕錶的特色之一。錶面保留原來典型的橫向浮雕圖案,不過指針加大了,塗有夜光塗料的時標也略為增大,形狀經過修改削銷,吻合錶圈的八角形線條輪廓。所有細微的修改,都為重新設計的金鷹系列腕錶締造出既新鮮又熟悉的形象。

大三針日期腕錶5711/1A和5800/1A




Nautilus 5711/1A & 5800/1A


新款的Nautilus大三針日曆錶有寬43毫米的5711/1A大型腕錶,以及寬38.4毫米的5800/1A中型腕錶兩個選擇,分別配備315SC及330SC自動上鍊機芯,都獲有日內瓦印記。大小分別比先前的款式加大了1毫米,也見證了當初被認為驚人大膽的大型腕錶設計,已變成為引領潮流的作品,再次彰顯百達翡麗秉承傳統、製作不朽時計傑作的決心。5800/1A腕錶無疑是手腕較小男士的理想之選,也迎合女士們日益喜愛佩帶較大腕錶的龐大需求。

動力儲能月相顯示錶5712




5712/1A


2005年方才推出的Nautilus動力儲能月相顯示錶,今年也隨著系列改款。全新5712腕錶錶徑43毫米,配備厚度僅3.98毫米、240 PS IRM C LU自動上鍊機芯,其中5712R是Nautilus腕錶第一次發表的玫瑰金錶款,搭配咖啡色面盤和皮錶帶,更顯獨特。

5980/1A計時碼錶






Nautilus改款的另一個大驚喜則是5980/1A計時碼錶,休閒優雅與運動活力並重的Nautilus運動錶加入計時性能,堪稱最佳組合。它所配備的28-250C導柱輪自動上鍊計時碼錶機芯,由今年才發表的5960年曆計時碼錶所配備的機芯修改而來,具有先進的導柱輪計時機制和創新的垂直碟形離合器,負責控制啟動及停止計時性能。中央計時秒針除了具備自動回位的特色外,更可以持續運轉,兼任大秒針的角色。積分和積時小錶盤合而為一,由同心刻度指針顯示,設計不凡。

錶寬達44毫米的5980/1A是Nautilus系列中最大型的腕錶,經過細意修飾的錶殼搭配兩只計時按鈕,可謂天衣無縫,好似1976年的原有款式早料想到會加入計時性能一般。Nautilus新款系列重新演繹了百達翡麗悠閒典雅的腕錶設計,全新面貌,叫人愛不釋手。各種細緻且精心設計的改變在彰顯腕錶風格之餘,亦保留了原有款式的過人氣質風采。Nautilus型號5980/1A計時碼錶誠屬系列內的傲人傑作,它的出現圓滿了這個充滿魅力的腕錶系列,也為這個追尋另一個三十年榮耀成就的系列開始了最完美的出發點。




Cal.28-250C機芯剖析圖


附錄:全新Nautilus 2006 改款細節一覽表

1. 錶殼形狀修改,鉸鏈變成略拱設計
2. 所有款式配備藍寶石水晶玻璃後底葢
3. 小時標記的形狀稍加改動,全方位吻合八角形錶圈線條
4. 時分指針加大
5. 鍊帶比例略為改變,令接合更為流暢
6. K金款式搭配皮製錶帶
7. Nautilus 玫瑰金款式首度登場
8. 除5800/1A外,改採全新三層錶殼結構設計(取代以往兩層的結構模式),配以錶殼底誘帢菑J式錶冠
9. 全新摺疊扣,由三大部份合成;皮製錶帶最新設計,雙重 保障接合安全
10. 新添全新複雜性能,推出5980/1A自動上鍊計時碼錶全新錶殼大小:
11. 全新中裝款式大小:38.40 毫米 (原有中型款式:37.5 毫米)
- 全新「Jumbo」款式大小:43 毫米 (原有「Jumbo」款式:42 毫米)
- 全新計時碼錶大小:44 毫米
發表於 Monday, January 22 @ 07:00:00 CST 由 watchbus

 
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Re: 百達翡麗金鷹系列Nautilus全新改款,展現悠閒典雅的時計新形象 (分數: 1)
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