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製錶大師 Michel Parmigiani 米歇爾•帕瑪強尼
當代的製錶大師中,Michel Parmigiani 米歇爾•帕瑪強尼顯然是個話較少的人,然而看著他工作時的關注神情,卻輕易就能感受到他對藝術和鐘錶的熱情和執著。而這樣的個人魅力顯然也完全被投注到 Parmigiani Fleurier 的鐘錶產品上,讓帕瑪強尼手錶以精細的做工、繁複美麗的雕刻和卓爾不凡的機芯,成立不到十年就在錶壇上建立了兼具精緻製錶技藝和華麗美學概念的品牌形象。

那麼,乍看時散發著文人雅士的氣息、充滿藝術感性和人文優雅的米歇爾•帕瑪強尼到底是如何走進鐘藝術的殿堂,又是在什麼樣的機緣下會創立 Parmigiani Fleurier 這個品牌的呢?More....



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出生於 1950 年的 Michel Parmigiani 米歇爾•帕瑪強尼,成長於瑞士山區 Neuchatel 的 Couvet 小鎮中的一個平凡家庭。可能是因為義大利裔的父親從事機械方面工作的關係,帕瑪強尼從小就顯露出對機械和鐘錶的興趣。帕瑪強尼自己認為引領他走進鐘錶事業的原因,其實應該歸因於中國人所說的「機緣」:在帕瑪強尼十二歲生日的時候,他的父親送給他一只 Olma 手錶。自此,小小年紀的他就對手錶產生了無與倫比的熱情,後來的他更進入了 Fleurier 的鐘錶學校就讀,並在畢業後又到了 Chaux-de-Fonds的技術學院和 Le Locle 的工學院深造。




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帕瑪強尼在拿到 Fleurier 製錶學校的文憑後,就曾拜師一個以天文鐘聞名的製錶家族傳人、也是瑞士製錶大師 Daniel JeanRichard 後裔 Marcel JeanRichard 的門下,就此開始了他的製錶生涯,不但精進了製錶的觀念和技術,更累積了眾多複雜性能計時器的寶貴經驗,奠定了他日後自創事業、專門修復古董鐘錶的基礎。此外,帕瑪強尼更藉著不斷的自習鑽研製錶的技術,發掘鐘錶世界裡神奇奧妙的工藝和美學


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1973 年,帕瑪強尼受聘於當地一家辛苦經營的製錶廠,擔任助理主任 (Assisatnt Director)。不但讓他有機會親身體驗了 Fleuier 當地製錶業的黃金時期因石英時代的狂潮,而終致凋零的悽慘經歷,更讓他了解到唯有成為一個自由創作的製錶師,才有機會完全實現自己對製錶技藝的堅持和夢想。1975 年,Michel Parmigiani 終於毅然決然成立他自己的公司Parmigiani Mesure et Art du Temps (PMAT),投身於修復傑出鐘錶這一行。為了修復這些古董鐘錶,他做了很多的背景研究,並學習鑽研每一件鐘錶當時的技術,即使是已有 450 年歷史的古董機械鐘錶製作技藝也費心研究。短短幾年他替一些著名的博物館與私人典藏修復了不少稀世臻品,包括精準無價的海事天文時計、皇家時計、自鳴鐘和音樂盒等,都由他回復昔日精燦的機械製作精髓。




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這當中最堪稱為經典的一則修復傳奇,就屬他修復了一只 1821 年由亞伯拉罕•路易斯•寶璣 (Abraham-Louis Breguet) 所創作的一只結合了座鐘與手錶的前進二合一式三問鐘 (Breguet’s Pendule Sympathique)。當時很多專家都表示不可能復原其風貌,但 Michel Parmigiani 卻接下這艱鉅的任務,更另人不可思議的是 Michel Parmigiani 花費了 2,000 小時的工時,將一座被認為不能修理的三問鐘回復到昔日的光采,並使之能正常運作。此一珍品後來更在日內瓦拍賣會上大放異彩,以超過 100 萬元高價售出,不但震撼了全球鐘錶界,更因而讓帕瑪強尼建立了一代大師的地位。

帕瑪強尼也曾接受瑞士知名的山度士家族基金會 (Sandoz Family Foundation) 的委託,修復其私人收藏裡的很多無價收藏品,包括了文藝復興時期的時鐘、雀鳥鳴盒、鳥鳴手槍、音樂盒與天文鐘等等。Michel Parmigiani 也曾接受 Sandoz 基金會委託的另一件艱鉅任務,去修復一件收藏於米蘭的 Poldi Pezzoli 博物館裡、寶璣大師所創作的的珍貴陀飛輪錶,並且完美地將之修復,不但因而獲得 Sandoz 基金會的賞識、獲得經濟上的奧援,更種下基金會日後投資入主 Parmigiani Mesure et Art du Temps (PMAT) ,並讓帕瑪強尼得以有資金創立 Parmigiani Fleurier 品牌的機緣。




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這段期間內,帕瑪強尼一方面致力於修復具歷史性的鐘錶、創作獨特的機械,在 80 年代後期也開始為瑞士著名的製錶商生產指定的複雜機械裝置。難能可貴的是,Michel Parmigiani 無論是修復古董時計或是創製全新的計時裝置,都堅持精湛的手藝跟生產高品質精準時計的原則。每一個帕瑪強尼的運作環節皆透露同樣的精神:追求和諧與承諾完美。在這段時間內,他發明了7款新式的鐘錶運轉方法和3種根據他原始概念而設計出來的機械裝置模體。

Michel Parmigiani 除了鑽研製錶工藝之外,他也醉心於追尋自然萬物中,花草、樹木或貝殼等所展現的平衡、和諧與力量之美。在他的觀念裡,大自然界的圖騰本身就是精密鐘錶技藝的完美典範。數百年前,又叫費伯納西 Fibonacci 的比薩人李安納度 (Leonardo of Pisa) 發現了所謂的費伯納西數列(即 1,1,2,3,5,8,13,21,34…的數列)。這數列中每一個數字都是之前兩數字之和,而數列中每一個數字與其前一個數字相除,會得到一個趨近於 1.618 的商數,這就是所謂的神聖比例或黃金比例。在動、植物的世界裡,處處可見這個神聖的數字。例如:雛菊或向日葵的花瓣數目與排列方式,鳳梨的結構符合對數螺旋曲線,蝸牛殼、松果和樹木枝葉的排列都符合費伯納西數列。


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因為大自然的漫妙萬物總讓 Michel Parmigiani 為之著迷,自然界的美學孕育了他的創造力,也開拓了的他的視野。Michel Parmigiani 在大自然界無所不在的花卉上,領悟出費伯納西螺線的真意,日後並進一步巧妙應用並創造出所謂 Rose Carree 主題的雕飾,建構出帕瑪強尼手錶中完美結合直線和重複幾何圖形的抽象結構,也成為帕瑪強尼製錶藝術的經典標誌,讓他的作品能夠運用獨特的韻律來表達對時間的概念,和迷人的黃金定律不謀而和。


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1995年,擁有龐大製藥 (如國內相當知名的 Novartis 諾華大藥廠)、金融及高科技事業的Sandoz家族基金會正式收購 PMAT 百分之51的股權,此舉不但象徵對 Michel Parmigiani 製錶技藝遠景的肯定,更實質上讓 Michel Parmigiani 得以擁有充足的資金來創立並生產合乎自己製錶理念的作品。帕瑪強尼選擇回到自己成長習藝的地方小城鎮 Fleurier,並於 1996 年正式成立 Parmigiani Fleurier 製錶廠。Fleurier是個位於寧靜的綠色山谷盡頭、遠離塵囂喧擾的世外桃源。Michel Parmigiani 在此吸引了很多傑出的人才,如:塘瓷彩繪家、雕刻家、工匠、修錶師、製錶師、機芯設計師等,跳離傳統的束縛,共同參予創造新新製錶業。誕生茁壯並開花結果於 Fleurier 美麗小鎮的帕瑪強尼手錶 Parmigiani Fleurier 自此開始為懂得欣賞鐘錶之美與藝術的顧客,創作設計出一件件獨一無二的腕錶,向世人綻放獨一無二的光彩,並躍居成為頂級名錶的代名詞。
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