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Rolex Explorer II 勞力士探險家二號
勞力士的探險家二號手錶 Explorer II 在台灣可說是和 Explorer I 及 Submariner 並稱最暢銷的 Rolex 運動錶款,而 Explorer II 則是三者中最晚上市,歷史最短的錶款。一般相信 Explorer II 的初次現身是 1971 年,當時的型號是 1655。1655 基本上是將當時的 GMT Master-I Ref. 1675 小改款所衍生出來的新款型。Explorer II Ref. 1655 將 GMT Master 的 24 小時印刷式可旋轉錶圈改成固定鏤刻式錶圈,使用的機芯和 GMT Master 一樣是 Calibre 1575。

勞力士聲稱 Explorer II 是專為洞穴探險家 (Speleologist、 Cave Explorer) 之類的運動冒險人士所設計的,因為他們深入黑暗不見天日的洞穴後,很快地就會喪失方位及時間感,感覺不出是白天和黑夜,當然也分不清楚正確時間是早上四點或下午四點。加上洞穴探險不免碰撞週遭的岩石,可旋轉式錶圈 24 小時相對顯得較不可靠,因此改用固定式錶圈理論上是基於安全性的考量。姑不論洞穴探險家是否真的會喪失時間感,或是 Rolex 新添錶款的實際動機為何,Explorer II Ref. 1655 在早年推出的時候,並未引起銷售的熱潮,倒是受到經常必須注意的時區變換的專業人士、如飛行員和航管人員等的愛用。More....





Rolex Explorer II 專為洞穴探險家設計




Rolex GMT-Master 專為穿梭時區之間的人士設計


Explorer II Ref. 1655 除了錶圈與 GMT Master I 明顯不同外,最大的差別當然在於指針形式的不同,它採用的時針和分針不同於GMT Master 的 Benz 時針和尖劍形分針,而獨特的橘色或紅色 24 小時顯示指針,更是和傳奇的 Milgauss Ref. 1019 的閃電形秒針一樣,是獨一無二、不與其他 Rolex 錶款共用的特殊款式。Explorer II Ref. 1655 只有前三年所生產的款式是配備橘黃色指針 (Orange Hand),以後就都改為紅色指針 (Red hand),因此一般而言,橘黃色指針 Explorer II 1655 的稀有性和價格都高於紅色指針款式。


點擊以觀看放大原圖

Explorer II Ref. 1655



Explorer II Ref. 1655 的橘黃和紅色 24 小時顯示指針


另一個關於 Explorer II 1655、向來為錶迷津津樂道和爭論的,便是所謂 Explorer II Steve McQueen 的傳說。有人認為 (或者說是已經變成慣例或是俗稱) 已過世的美國性格動作巨星史蒂芬麥昆 Steve McQueen 是 Explorer II 1655 的愛用者,他在電影中也佩戴 Explorer II 1655上鏡入影。因為 Steve McQueen 深受歐美觀眾喜愛,愛屋及烏的結果,這樣的流傳廣為人知,所以 Explorer II 1655 就又被暱稱為 Explorer II Steve McQueen。




Steve McQueen



Steve McQueen 主演 The Hunter (1980)


然而這樣的說法遭到不少的質疑,因為 Explorer II Ref. 1655 自1970年代初期開始生產製造,並於1985年停產;然而史帝夫麥昆在1980年因肺癌去世之前的70年代早期幾年中,只拍了少數幾部電影。其中,唯一可以清楚看出他在電影鏡頭中所戴手錶的是Rolex的,是1980年發行的 The Hunter 一片。此片中唯一可看到手錶的幾個遠鏡頭堙A他所戴的錶從錶圈、錶面和錶帶的特徵來看,更像是 Submariner 而非 Explorer II。不過, Steve McQueen 畢竟過世太早,不比 Paul Newman 還來得及現身說法,戴著 Daytona Paul Newman 亮相,為他的慈善基金會募款。不過,就像沒有人介意牛郎織女其實只是兩顆恆星一樣的道理,傳說既有其迷離誤解的成分增添其故事性,伴隨性格巨星深植人心的印象與概念,其真實性便顯得無關緊要了。Steve McQueen 和 Explorer II 1655 之間的故事會繼續流傳,這一點倒是可以相當確定的。




Ecplorer 1655


註:請參考本網站文章「Paul Newman 保羅紐曼與 McQueen 史帝夫麥昆」




Explorer II Ref. 16550 with Cream/Ivory Dial


幾乎是跟隨著 GMT Master I 改款為 GMT-Master II Ref. 16700 一樣,1986 年勞力士推出新款 Explorer II Ref. 16570,鏡面改用藍寶石水晶玻璃,時針、分針和24 小時顯示指針都改成和 GMT Master II 一樣,機芯也改成一樣可以讓 24 小時顯示指針可前後快撥、不干擾時針分秒針運作的 Caliber 3135 機芯。至於 Explorer II Ref. 16570 的錶圈則和舊款一樣,依舊是固定式不可旋轉,採用黑色鏤刻式 24 小時數字,和 GMT-Master II 不同。不過,有很少數初改款的 Explorer II 16570 鏤刻的是紅色數字,相當希罕。另一個較稀有的錶款是只在 1985 年後生產了兩年、早已停產的Explorer II Ref. 16550 Cream/Ivory Dial,這款奶油面 (象牙面) Explorer II 具有與現行黑色和白色面盤的 Explorer II 不同的獨特面盤色調,據稱其好處是無論在白天或黑夜,都能清楚看清時間,不受強度光線不同的干擾。




Explorer II 16550 的奶油面盤


點擊以觀看放大原圖

Explorer II White Dial


Explorer II 自誕生以來就像是 GMT-Master 的衍生錶款,然而其今日的受歡迎程度卻顯然青出於藍,固然其性能考量或外形美學可能有優於 GMT-Master 之處,但是 Explorer 探險家令人遐想的命名,前身錶款 Explorer 1655 持續蔓延的的獨特魅力,以及和 Steve McQueen 之間的朦朧傳說,才更是讓 Explorer II 更加發燒的原因吧?畢竟光是想像自己一戴上錶就變成探險家或是電影巨星的感覺,著實就讓人無法抗拒呢!


點擊以觀看放大原圖

Explorer 16570 Black Dial

發表於 Monday, November 10 @ 00:00:00 CST 由 watchbus

 
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Re: Rolex Explorer II 勞力士探險家二號 (分數: 1)
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Re: Rolex Explorer II 勞力士探險家二號 (分數: 1)
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