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經典再現光芒:IWC 萬國錶再度推出 Ingenieur 工程師系列腕錶 (下)
工程師全新系列腕錶再現錶壇

1954/55 年間問世的 Ingenieur 工程師系列腕錶,從一開始便堪稱萬國錶 IWC 的代表性產品,錶盤上電光閃爍的「Ingenieur」字樣和閃電圖樣不僅象徵電力,更是摩登時代的標誌。五十年來,這款腕錶一直是堅固牢靠、精益求精的同意詞,是眾多 IWC 錶迷魂縈夢繫的經典錶款。繼前年 IWC 大舉改款 Mark 飛行軍錶,去年又推出全新 Aquatimer 系列手錶後,不少錶迷便推測以萬國錶顯明的海陸空夾擊態勢,再度推出強悍的 Ingenieur 系列作為其陸地主題的主力錶款,應該是合理的作法。特別是萬國錶去年與 Mercedes-AMG 宣佈策略合作關係,並宣示將合作推出全新系列手錶,更多人也猜測可能是重新發行 Ingenieur 系列的最佳時刻。果然在今年,繼空、海之後,萬國錶終於登「陸」推出全新設計的 Ingenieur 工程師系列腕錶,獨具動感與魅力、格外牢固耐久,展現絕對的簡潔之美,並鞏個了萬國錶與 Mercedes-AMG 的策略性合夥關係。配有陸地活動所需的性能, 無論是體育活動日常配戴,或是在極端嚴苛的條件下 ,均能顯現出不同凡響的卓越風範,為 IWC 永無終止的研發和製造傳奇再次寫下新篇章。More…


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新款 Ingenieur 工程師系列重現 Ingenieur SL 風華

第一眼的印象總是舉足輕重,撥動心弦。 萬國錶並不否認工程師全新系列與 1976 年由 Gerald Genta 所設計的 Ingenieur SL 錶之間的親密關係,但與其將新款工程師系列視為這款知名腕錶的副本,還不如將之視為其新生代的錶款來得合適。Ingenieur SL 的設計精美獨特,可惜 80 年代當時錶壇流行輕薄小巧的造型,並未受到應有的注意。如今,流行的風向再次扭轉,工程師全新系列的錶殼直徑達 42.5 毫米,儼然是一款極具當代風格的運動腕錶。它為男性傳達出「一掌在握」的有力形象,不僅時先驅者探險家的表徵,亦是鐘錶稀有極品鑑賞家的最愛。Ingenieur SL 系列錶款的造型特色在於原形的五孔外圈、與錶殼一體成形的金屬錶帶。05 年全新的工程師系列毫不猶疑繼續採用這樣優異的設計,保留了該系列歷久彌堅的部分,並改良所有可進一步提升之處。全新的工程師系列腕錶仍堅持當初創做的基本哲學觀,也就是「超越精簡外在的豐富內涵」,即使腕錶蘊藏的珍貴價值並不立時彰顯外揚,但配戴者卻能深刻的感受到形影相隨的可靠特性。所以,工程師系列腕錶配備了牢固的錶殼、旋入式錶冠與效果奇佳的密封墊裝置,確保防水、防塵與防汗水的效果,不僅適合經常配戴,也可在極度嚴苛的條件下使用,時時展現可靠的性能。


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Ingenieur Automatic


Ingenieur 配備萬國錶廠有史以來最堅固的作品 80110 型機芯

工程師系列腕錶所配置的全新機械機芯 80110 是萬國錶廠有史以來最堅固的作品,其
防震裝置經過科學儀器全面修正改良,您大可配戴這一系列腕錶,輕鬆地打一場高爾夫球。萬國錶產品開發部門的負責人艾森格 Kilian Eisenegger 自豪地表示:「我們能創造超過三百馬力的引擎,因為錶廠擁有豐厚的實力!」三百馬力?他其實是藉汽車的發動力來形容鐘錶的製作。而艾森格所指的引擎,便是這款直徑 30.4 毫米、厚 7.2 毫米的工程師 80110 型新型自動上鏈機芯。這款獨特的機芯經過悉心的鑽研,以精確的技術調整,耗費了大量的心力與時間,為錶壇之首見,絕非等閒之輩。由它所驅動的錶款,便是與萬國錶廠密不可分的工程師系列,也是五十年來 Schaffhaussen 創造精神與技術導向的完美象徵。工程師系列的同義詞,就是頂尖的品質認證,以堅固強韌、優異的防護裝置,作為創作的初衷,整體的製作一絲不茍,適合現代人經常性的配戴,也可在極度惡劣的條件下使用。


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Caliber 80110


僅就腕錶的機械機芯而言,便有很多特點,除了圓形擒縱叉、鍍鎳主機板與橋板外,另配有時、分顯示、中央秒針、擎停秒針性能、日期顯示與日期快速調校性能,平衡襬輪每小時振頻 28,800 次(周率 4 赫茲),配有二十八枚紅寶石軸承,動力儲存44小時,性能精湛完善,但工程師系列並不僅只於此。這一系列更值得著墨之處,是萬國錶廠獨家的技術:80110 型機芯配有效果絕佳的佩勒頓啄木鳥大鋼輪雙向上鏈裝置 (Pellaton Winding Ratcheted System),不僅承襲工程師系列半個世紀的傳統,更以錶廠五十年深厚的經驗詮釋製錶的理念,讓這款自動上鏈機芯成為同類作品當中,運作性能最理想、防護裝置最堅固、技術結構最牢靠、操作使用最簡便的傑作。


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Ingenieur Chronograph


萬國錶廠的獨家絕技:80110 型機芯的防震裝置

在艾森格的領導下,錶廠利用最先進的技術,全面改良 80110 型機芯的上鏈裝置,並特別加強整體的可靠性能與防震效果,大異於先前配有同款專利上鏈裝置的機芯。艾新棋宣告「在錯誤當中嘗試摸索的鐘錶年代已告終」,換句話說,由亞伯特.佩勒頓於 1940 年代末發明的上鏈裝置 (Pellaton Winding Ratcheted System),儘管在彈簧板橋上配有相對較笨重的轉陀,但其中的運行原理至今依然通行。重新改良的機芯設有內置的防震裝置,首度經過電腦設計成形,經過實際測試修正,可抵銷各種外來的震動。艾森格指出,錶廠根據測試的結果,將防震裝置設計成臂灣形,完全順應物理的原則。同時,轉陀配有內置的彈簧,並經過特殊札邊,在承受垂直撞擊時,能抵消外來的力量,絲毫不影響本身的配置。轉陀每一側並設有緩衝空間,底部亦配有橡膠墊,在劇烈的撞擊下,能保護主機板,避免損壞機芯。此外,這款上鏈裝置的轉陀同於原型款,棄絕滾珠式的軸承,採取穩定的轉軸裝置。「因為滾珠軸承內有隙縫,會引起摩擦現象,干擾穩定的運作。」專家如是解釋道,並提供一系列令人印象深刻的測試示範,證實其所言不假。


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由 Ingenieur Caliber 80110 的結構圖不難看出它強悍堅固的本質


80110 型機芯曾在錶廠內部的測試中心,承受一連串史無前例的嚴格測試。萬國錶為增長每一系列機芯的壽命,特別以無情的撞擊測試,考驗一百多款基本機芯,並將之暴露在極寒或極熱的環境當中。在撞擊的過程中,錶廠以機芯重量五百倍的力量(或五千倍的超重力),連續敲擊機芯六萬次,然後予以再拆解,仔細研究。全新改良的機芯集所有的測試結果於一身,即便是精密螺絲組裝的轉矩亦不例外。所以艾森格再度強調:「您真的可以配戴工程師腕錶,輕鬆地打一場高爾夫球」。


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益見重要的抗磁性

80110 型機芯還具有一項特點:它的抗磁力經測試,每公尺可高達 80,000 A/m八萬安培,大幅超過瑞士抗磁錶標準的四千八百安培。機芯內部配有軟鐵殼,能形成完整的傳導磁場,避免產生兩極作用。抗磁內層的製作與最早期的工程師腕錶相同,含有軟鐵套、機芯環與連結背板的機板。對於當今的戴錶人而言,這項裝置有如天賜的福音,因為我們四周充斥了越來越多的人造磁場,集中在各種揚聲器、電線與機械中。這些磁場有如隱形的病毒,不斷干擾機芯穩定的運作。


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Ingenieur Automatic AMG



IWC / Ingenieur / AMG 的傳奇組合

經過徹底改良的 Ingenieur 工程師腕錶 不但反映出半個世紀以來持續追求進步的態度,更挾帶著一股不可抵擋的氣勢重反錶壇,將我們瞬間引入另一個世代:一個重新發現傳統價值,並揉合先進科技的新世代。不但展現工程師全新系列的內在精神,也進而鞏固強化了 IWC 和 AMG 之間的夥伴關係。這兩個合夥公司一個專門製作鐘錶,另一各專事生產汽車,但皆擁有相同的目標、價值觀與對產品嚴格的要求,而且均自視為熱情專注的工程師。萬國錶廠與Mercedes-AMG 車廠工共同發現彼此後,決定攜手創作,不但聯手開發出全新 Ingenieur 工程師系列,IWC 更特別推出具備鮮明特色的特別款AMG版本的 Ingenieur 工程師自動上鍊腕錶與計時腕錶,採用與和一般錶款的精鋼材質迴異的鈦金屬精心打造這兩款鉅作。而為了彰顯跑車性格,Ingenieur AMG 手錶特別配有熱血的紅色指針,計時腕錶款則配有與錶殼一體成型的計時啟動和結束按鈕。


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Ingenieur AMG Chrono and Automatic


您大可在它的陪伴之下,毫無後顧之憂地面對生活中的每一項挑戰。如果萬國錶廠的飛行員腕錶在空中稱雄、海洋時計系列腕錶在海中如魚得水,那麼工程師系列無疑是在陸地上傲視群雄的頂級運動錶。無論是擠壓、拉扯、撞擊、震動、緊急加速、緊急煞車、從冷到熱的溫差、或是越來越多機械裝置發出的磁場效應,均無法動搖這一系列腕錶完美的運作 。


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