¸g¨å¦A²{¥ú¨~¡GIWC ¸U°ê¿ö¦A«×±À¥X Ingenieur ¤uµ{®v¨t¦CµÃ¿ö (¤W)
¦b·ç¤hªº°ª¶¥»s¿ö¼t¤¤¡AIWC (International Watch Co.) ¸U°êªí¦V¨Ó»P²³¤£¦P¡A¥ú¬Ý¥¦ªº¤½¥q¦WºÙ¬O¯Â¥¿ªº^¤å¡A¦b¥R¥¸ªk¤å¦r²´ªº·ç¤h«~µP·í¤¤´NÅã±oÅb¥ßÂû¸s¡C¥t¤@¤è±¡A¸U°êªíªº«~µP§Î¶H©Mºë¯«¥Rº¡¨Ó¦Û¼w·N§Óºë·Ç¤uµ{¬ì§Þªºèµw¦L¶H¡C³o¼Ëªº¦L¶H·íµM¤]¨ä¨Ó¦³¦Û¡A¦]¬° IWC ¥¿¬O¦b1868¦~¥Ñ¤@¦ì¨Ó¦Û¬ü°êªi¤h¹yªº¤uµ{®v Florentine Ariosto Jones¦b·ç¤h¾aªñ¼w°êÃä¹Òªº Schaffhausen ®L¤Ò»¨´Ë©Ò¦¨¥ßªº¡C¦òù۴£¡Eã´µ¬J¬O¤@¦ì¤uµ{®v¡B²z·Q¥D¸qªÌ¡A§ó¨ã¦³±Ó¾Uªº¥Í·NÀY¸£¡C¦b¥L¼²î¬ï¶V¤j¦è¬v®É¡A¥L¸£®üùئ¦³¤@®Mºë©úªºpµe¡A¥´ºâ¦bµÜ¯ôªe¯`³]¥ß»s¿ö¼t¡A§Q¥Î·í¦a¨ú¤§¤£ºÜ¤ô¤Oªº¯à¶q¡A§Q¥Î·í®É§Þ³N¶~¼ô¡B¤u¸ê§C·Gªº·ç¤h»s¿ö¤H¤O¡Aµ²¦X¨Ó¦Û¬ü°êªº¤u·~¾÷±ñ¨Ó¥Í²£·¥«×·Ç½TªºÃh¿ö¡A¶i¦Ó±È°_¤F¤@³õÄÁ¿ö§Þ³N²©R¡A¨Ã¦¨¬°ì³Ð©Mºë·Ç»s¿ö·~ªº·nÄx¡C°t³Æ Jones Caliber ªº IWC Ãh¿ö¤j´T«×§ï¶i¤FÃh¿öªº¨«®Éºë·Ç«×©M·Å«×ªºùÚ©w¤ô·Ç¡A¤@Á|·Ãû¤F19¥@¬ö¥½¡B20¥@¬öªìªºÄÁ¿ö¥«³õ¡C¦Ó IWC ¦b1890¦~±À¥Xªº Grande Compication Ãh¿ö¡A¤£¦ýűo°ê»ÚÄÁ¿ö¨ó·|ªº¹Åµû©M½è¶qÀu²§ÃҮѡA§ó¨³§Y¦¨¬°¦¬Âîaª§Áʤ§ª«¡A¬Æ¦Ü³s·í®Éªº±Ð¬Ó¡B«O¥[§Q¨È¬Ó«Ò¥H¤Î«á¨Óªº^°êº¬Ûªô¦Nº¸¤]³£¦¨¬°IWCªº«È¤á¡CMore¡K
Ingenieur Caliber 852 Ref.666 Circa 1955
Photo credit of the following pictures:
Larry Seiden, Marco Schönenberger and David Ter Molen
IWC ¨¾ºÏ¤â¿öªºÀÝÂÒ
20¥@¬öªì¡AIWCªº¥Í²£¸gÀç«ÂI³vº¥Âಾ¦Ü¤â¿ö¤W¡A¦Ó¤½¥q»s§@±M·~§Þ³N¿ö´Ú (technical watch) ªº¶Ç²Î¨Ì³Qºû«ùµÛ¡C²Ä¤@¦¸¥@¬É¤j¾Ô®É¡AIWC »s§@¤F¤j§å¨ã¦³©]¥ú¿ö±ªºx¥Î¤â¿ö¡A¤G¦¸¥@¬É¤j¾Ô´Á¶¡¡AIWC ±À¥X¤F±M¬°ªº¼w°êªÅx (German Luftwaffe) ¸¦æû¬ã»sªº¨¾ºÏ¸¦æ¤â¿ö B-Uhr¡CB-Uhr©Ò°t³Æªº Caliber 52SC °ò¥»¤W¥Ñ IWC ªºÃh¿ö Caliber 52 ¬ãµo¦Ó¨Ó¡A¦Ó¬°¤F¦]À³¸¾÷¾÷¿µ¤º³±·t¥B¥Rº¡¹qºÏ¿ç®gªºÀô¹Ò¡AB-Uhr¸¦æ¿ö°£¤F§ï¬°¤è«Kp®Éªº¤¤¥¡¤j¬í°w¥~¡A¨Ã¦b¿ö½L©M¾÷ªä¤§¶¡¸m¦³§ÜºÏ³nÅK (soft iron) ¤º¼h¡A¥i¥H«OÅ@¾÷ªä¤£¨üºÏ³õ¤zÂZ¡A¼vÅT¾÷ªä¹B¦æªº·Ç½T«×¡CIWC ¶i¤@¨B±N³o¼Ëªº¤â¿ö¨¾ºÏ§Þ³Nµo´¥ú¤j¡A¦b 1943 ¦~³Ð§@¤F¤é«áµÛ¦Wªº°¨§J¤Q«¬ Mark X ¸¦æ¿ö¨Ñ^°êªÅx¨Ï¥Î¡A¤§«á¤S¦b 1947/48 ¦~¶¡¦A«×ºt¤Æ¬°Mark XI¡C
¸g¨åªº°_·½¡GIngenieur ¤uµ{®v¤â¿öªº¾ú¥v
¤G¦¸¥@¬É¤j¾Ô¤§«á¡A¥þ²y¶i¤J¹q¤l©M¬ì§Þ¤uµ{½´«kµo®iªº®É¥N¡AµL½×¬O¾÷±ñ»s³y¡B¯è¤Ó§Þ³N©M³q°T¶Ç¿éµ¥¦UӤ豳£¦³¬ð¯}©Êªºµo®i¡A¤HÃþ¤]¶i¤J¤F¹q¤l¾¹§÷µL©Ò¤£¦bªºÀô¹Ò¤¤¡C³o¨Ç¹qºÏ©Ê¹ï¾÷±ñ¿ö¹B¦æªº·Ç½T©Ê²£¥Í·¥¤jªº¼vÅT¡A¨Ï±o·ç¤h»s¿ö·~¤]¯É¯É§ë¤J¨¾ºÏ¿ö´Úªº¬ã»s¡A³s Patek Philippe ¤]¦b 1950 ¦~¥Nªì´Á±À¥X¨¾ºÏ¿ö´Ú¡C¾Ô«áªº®É¥N¼é¬yÁÙ±aµ¹·ç¤h»s¿ö·~¥t¤@Ó«¤jªº¼vÅT¡A¨º´N¬O¦Û°Ê¤WÁå¤â¿öªº·¼é¡C½Ñ®a¿ö¼t¦Ê®a»ô»ï¡A¤jÁ|§ë¤J¦Û°Ê¿öªº¬ãµo¡A¦UºØ±M§Q³]p¯É¯Éµoªí¡A¼t°Ó¤£Â_µoªí¦U¦¡¥þ·s¿ö´Ú¡C¦Ó§Ú̥ثe©Òn¤¶²Ðªº IWC Ingenieur ¤uµ{®v¨t¦CµÃ¿ö¡A¨ä¹ê¥¿¬O³o¨âªÑ®É¥N¼é¬y¿Ä·|½ÄÀ»¤§¤Uªº¸g¨å²£ª«¡C¦b¤¶²Ð 1954/55 ¦~¶¡½Ï¥Í¡B¦p¤µ¬O²³¦h¿ö°g¤ß¥Ø¤¤¸g¨åµÃ¿öªº Ingenieur ¤uµ{®v¨t¦CµÃ¿ö¤§«e¡A§Ú̱o¥ý¨Ó½Í½Í Ingenieur ªº¶Ê¥ÍªÌ¡BIWC ªº»s¿ö¤Ñ¤~Albert Pellaton¡C
Ingenieur Cal.852 RG/ 8531/ 8541B Military Style Dial/ 8541B
¸U°ê¿ö©ó1944 ¦~¸u½Ð Albert Pellaton ¨È§B¯S¡E¨Ø°Ç¹y¬°§Þ³NÁ`ºÊ¡A¥Lªº¥Dn¥ô°È´N¦b¬° IWC ¿ö¼t¶}µo¥X¥þ·sªº¦Û°Ê¤WÁå¾÷±ñ¾÷ªä¡A¦]¬°¦Û°Ê¤WÁå¾÷ªä¯à±qÀ¹¿ö¤H¤âµÃªºÄü°Ê¤¤¡A¨ú±o·½·½¤£µ´ªº°Ê¤O¡A¦b·í®É¤@Á|¦¨¬°ÄÁ¿ö¥ý¶i§Þ³Nªº¶H¼x¡C¨Ø°Ç¹yªº¥ô°È«K¬O±N IWC ¿ö¼t¤Þ¶i¡u¦Û°Ê¤WÁå¾÷±ñ¿öªº¦~¥N¡v¡CÄÁ¿ö¬É·í®É¤w¥X²{Y¤z¦Û°Ê¤WÁå¸Ë¸m¡A¦ý Albert Pellaton ¤£¥´ºâ°lÀH¥LÌ¡A¦Ó°í«ù¿í´`¦Û¤vªº²z©À±qÀY¶}©l¬ãµo¡C¹ï©ó¨¬°¤uµ{®vªº¥L¦Ó¨¥¡A¾÷ªä²Â«ªºÂàªû¬J¯à¸ü¦à¤]¯àÂЦà¡A¦]¦¹¨Ø°Ç¹y±N¶}µo«ÂI©ñ¦b¨â¶µ¸Ë¸m¤§¤W¡A ²Ä¤@¶µ¬O¬°Âàªû³]¸m¼u®¡A´£°ª¤F¹B§@ªº¥i¾a©Ê¡A³o¶µ¥©§®ªº¸Ë¸m¸g¹L§ï¨}«á¡A¨Ï¤uµ{®vµÃ¿ö¦¨¬°«e©Ò¥¼¦³ªº°í©T³Ç§@¡C ²Ä¤G¶µ¬O²³æ¤S¦³®Ä²vªº¤j¿û½ü¤WÁå¸Ë¸m¡A ¯à±NÂàªûªº°Ê¤O¶Ç°Ê¨ìµo±ø½L¡A¬°¸U°ê¿ö¨ú±o¿W®a±M§QÅv¡A ±q¦¹«K³QºÙ¬°¨Ø°Ç¹y¤WÁå¸Ë¸m (Pellaton Winding Ratcheted system)¡A¤S³Q¼ÊºÙ¬°°Ö¤ì³¾¤WÁå¾÷ªä¡C¨Ø°Ç¹yµo©úªº¤j¿û½ü¤WÁå¸Ë¸m²¨¥¤§¡A´N¬O¤@Ó»PÂàªû¬Û³sªºÂ÷¤ß¥Y½ü¡A¥i¦b°tÀ¹ªÌ¤âµÃÄü°Ê®É¡A¨Ó¦^ªºÂà°Ê¸Ë¦³¨âªTºu½üªºÂù¿çºb±ì¡C¤j¿û½ü¥i¥H¤£¨üÂàªû²¾°Ê¤è¦Vªº¼vÅT¡A ¤@ÂI¤@ÂIªºÀHµÛ·nÄüºb±ìªºÀº¤öÂà°Ê¡A§â§ó¦h°Ê¤O¶Ç¦Ü¥Dµo±ø½L¡C
Ingenieur Caliber 8541 ¾÷ªä¤º¥i¨£¨ì¨¾ºÏ³nÅK¤º°é¤Î³¡¤À°Ö¤ì³¾¤WÁå¸Ë¸m
n¨Dµ´¹ï§¹¬üªº¤uµ{®v©Ê®æ
¨È§B¯S¡E¨Ø°Ç¹y¬OÓ¹D¦aªº§¹¬ü¥D¸qªÌ¡A¾Ú»¡¥L·|±N¤£º¡·NªºÄÁ¿ö쫬¥´¥]¡A±q¿ö¼tªþªñªº¾ô¤W¥á¶iµÜ¯ôªe¤¤¡A¦^ÀY¦A«·s¶}©l»s§@¯à¹F¨ì¦Û¤vn¨Dªº¤â¿ö¡A¦]¦¹§Y«K¥L¦b 1946 ¦~´NÀò±o¦Û°Ê¤WÁå·s¸Ë¸mªº±M§Q¡A¦ý¥L¨Ã¤£§¹¥þº¡·N¡A«ùÄò¶i¦æ§ï¶i¡Cª½¨ì 1950 ¦~¤~¥¿¦¡µo¥¬ Caliber 81 ¡A¨Ã¦b 1951 ¦~§ï¨}¬° 85 «¬¦Û°Ê¤WÁå¾÷ªä¡AÄ~¦Ó¦b 1952 ¤Î 1953 ¦~¥ý«á±À¥X§óºë´ïªº852«¬¾÷ªä(µL¤é´ÁÅã¥Ü) »P 8521 «¬¾÷ªä (°t¦³¤é´ÁÅã¥Ü) ¡A¦p¤µ¸Ë¸mµÛ³o¨Ç¾÷ªäªº¥j¸³ÄÁ¿ö³£¤w¦¨¬°¦¬Âîa¬Ãµøªº³Ç§@¡C
Ingenieur Caliber 8521
8521 «¬¾÷ªä¦b 1950 ¦~¥Nªì´Á¤@Á|¦¨¬°·í¥NÄÁ¿ö¦yºÝ¬ì§Þªºµ´¨Î¨å½d¡A ¤]¹w¥Ü³oӮɥNªº¤H̹ï·í®É¹ï¬ì§Þ¶i¨Bªº«H¤ß»P´Á±æ¡A¤Ï¬M¥X¦UÃþ¬ì§Þ¤uµ{®v©êªÌº¡µÄ¶¯¤ß§§§Ó¡A ´÷±æ«·s§ï³y¥@¬Éªº¦~¥N®ð¶H¡C¬Û¹ïªº¡AIWC ¤]²`¤Á·NÃѨì¡G¤@´Ú¶H¼x·í¥Nºë¯«ªºµÃ¿ö¥²¶·¨ã³Æ²Á媺¥~«¬ ¡Bºë´ï@¤[ªº°ª¬ì§Þ¤º¦b¡C°ò©ó³oÓì«h¡A¸U°ê¿ö¼tªºÄÁ¿ö®v³Å¨M©w¦b³o´Ú·sªº¦Û°Ê¤WÁå¾÷ªä¤¤¡A±Ä¥Î¨äºX¤U¸g¨å¸¦æûµÃ¿ö Mark XI (1948 ¦~) ªº§Þ³N¡A¥H§ÜºÏ¤º¼h«OÅ@¾÷ªä¤£¨üºÏ³õ¤zÂZ¥]¬A³nÅK´ß ( »P¿ö½L§Î¦¨µ´¨Îªº¶Ç¾É®ÄªG) ¡B¾÷ªäÀô»PIªO¡F¦¹¥~¡A¿ö¼tÁÙ¥H¯à§í¨î¤ÏºÏ©Êªº Durochrom ¦Xª÷»P³Q¹e«C»É¡A»s§@ÀºÁa¸Ë¸mµ²ºcªº¯S®í²Õ¥ó¡AÅýµÃ¿ö¨C¤½¤Øªº§ÜºÏ¤O»´©ö¦a¹F¨ì¤K¸U¦w°ö (80,000 A/m)¡A¨Ï±o¤@¯ë¶È¤Î¥|¤d¤K¦Ê¦w°öªº§ÜºÏ¿ö¬Û§Î¥¢¦â¡A¦Ó³o´N¬O IWC ¶Ç©_ªº Ingenieur ¤uµ{®v¨t¦CµÃ¿ö½Ï¥Íªº½t¥Ñ¡A¤@¥u¯à§¹¬ü¸àÄÀ·í®É¤H̹ï¬ì§Þ¶i¨Bªº«H¤ß»P´Á±æªºµÃ¿ö¡A
¾÷±ñ©M¹q¤l¤u·~ªºµo®i«P¦¨¨¾ºÏ¾÷±ñ¿öªº½Ï¥Í
¶Ç©_ Ingenieur ¤uµ{®v¨t¦CµÃ¿öªì½Ï¥Í
³Ì¦ªº Ingenieur ¤uµ{®vµÃ¿ö©ó 1954 ¦~¦Ü 1955 ¦~¶¡°Ý¥@¡AÁöµM¿ö½L¤W¹¢¦³¶H¼x¬ì§Þªº¹q¥ú¹Ï¼Ë (thunderbolt arrow)¡A¦ý¨ä¿ö´ß©M±½L¨Ã¥¼±Ä¥ÎÃþ¦ü Mark XI ªºx¿ö·®æ³y«¬¡A¤Ï¦Ó±Ä¥Î 50 ¦~¥Nªì´Á¸û¬°¥j¨å¶®Pªº³]p¡A¤ñ¦p»È¦â Pie Pan ±½L©Mª÷Äݱøª¬©Î¼Æ¦r®É¨è¨è«×µ¥¼Ë¦¡¡CÁöµM¥~«¬¨å¶®¡A¦ý¬OIngenieur ¤uµ{®vµÃ¿ö«oµ´¹ï¬O¤@´Ú±j½Õ©Ê¯à©M¬ì§Þªº¤â¿ö¡A°£¤F¬ð¥Xªº¨¾ºÏ©Ê¯à¤§¥~¡A¥¦Á٨㦳°í©T±j®«ªº¾÷ªä©M·¥¨Îªº¨¾¤ô©Ê¡A¾Ú«H¥v¤W²Ä¦ì§¹¦¨Ãkµn¸t¥À®pªº Edmund Hillary Àï¤h«K¦b¦h¦¸ªº¨ä¥L±´ÀI¦æ°Ê¤¤°tÀ¹¹L IWC ªºIngenieur ¤â¿ö¡C
Ingenieur Caliber 85X ¦Û°Ê¤WÁå¾÷ªä¸Ñ»¡¹Ï
«ÝÄò¡K.
Acknowledgement:
We would like to thank Larry Seiden, Marco Schönenberger and David Ter Molen. Most of the pictures about vintage Ingenieurs in this series of articles are quoted from their wonderful website of "THE IWC INGENIEUR". Please make sure to visit their website if you are interested in Ingenieur.
Ingenieur Caliber 852
Ingenieur Caliber 852 Ref.666 Circa 1955
Photo credit of the following pictures:
Larry Seiden, Marco Schönenberger and David Ter Molen
IWC ¨¾ºÏ¤â¿öªºÀÝÂÒ
20¥@¬öªì¡AIWCªº¥Í²£¸gÀç«ÂI³vº¥Âಾ¦Ü¤â¿ö¤W¡A¦Ó¤½¥q»s§@±M·~§Þ³N¿ö´Ú (technical watch) ªº¶Ç²Î¨Ì³Qºû«ùµÛ¡C²Ä¤@¦¸¥@¬É¤j¾Ô®É¡AIWC »s§@¤F¤j§å¨ã¦³©]¥ú¿ö±ªºx¥Î¤â¿ö¡A¤G¦¸¥@¬É¤j¾Ô´Á¶¡¡AIWC ±À¥X¤F±M¬°ªº¼w°êªÅx (German Luftwaffe) ¸¦æû¬ã»sªº¨¾ºÏ¸¦æ¤â¿ö B-Uhr¡CB-Uhr©Ò°t³Æªº Caliber 52SC °ò¥»¤W¥Ñ IWC ªºÃh¿ö Caliber 52 ¬ãµo¦Ó¨Ó¡A¦Ó¬°¤F¦]À³¸¾÷¾÷¿µ¤º³±·t¥B¥Rº¡¹qºÏ¿ç®gªºÀô¹Ò¡AB-Uhr¸¦æ¿ö°£¤F§ï¬°¤è«Kp®Éªº¤¤¥¡¤j¬í°w¥~¡A¨Ã¦b¿ö½L©M¾÷ªä¤§¶¡¸m¦³§ÜºÏ³nÅK (soft iron) ¤º¼h¡A¥i¥H«OÅ@¾÷ªä¤£¨üºÏ³õ¤zÂZ¡A¼vÅT¾÷ªä¹B¦æªº·Ç½T«×¡CIWC ¶i¤@¨B±N³o¼Ëªº¤â¿ö¨¾ºÏ§Þ³Nµo´¥ú¤j¡A¦b 1943 ¦~³Ð§@¤F¤é«áµÛ¦Wªº°¨§J¤Q«¬ Mark X ¸¦æ¿ö¨Ñ^°êªÅx¨Ï¥Î¡A¤§«á¤S¦b 1947/48 ¦~¶¡¦A«×ºt¤Æ¬°Mark XI¡C
¸g¨åªº°_·½¡GIngenieur ¤uµ{®v¤â¿öªº¾ú¥v
¤G¦¸¥@¬É¤j¾Ô¤§«á¡A¥þ²y¶i¤J¹q¤l©M¬ì§Þ¤uµ{½´«kµo®iªº®É¥N¡AµL½×¬O¾÷±ñ»s³y¡B¯è¤Ó§Þ³N©M³q°T¶Ç¿éµ¥¦UӤ豳£¦³¬ð¯}©Êªºµo®i¡A¤HÃþ¤]¶i¤J¤F¹q¤l¾¹§÷µL©Ò¤£¦bªºÀô¹Ò¤¤¡C³o¨Ç¹qºÏ©Ê¹ï¾÷±ñ¿ö¹B¦æªº·Ç½T©Ê²£¥Í·¥¤jªº¼vÅT¡A¨Ï±o·ç¤h»s¿ö·~¤]¯É¯É§ë¤J¨¾ºÏ¿ö´Úªº¬ã»s¡A³s Patek Philippe ¤]¦b 1950 ¦~¥Nªì´Á±À¥X¨¾ºÏ¿ö´Ú¡C¾Ô«áªº®É¥N¼é¬yÁÙ±aµ¹·ç¤h»s¿ö·~¥t¤@Ó«¤jªº¼vÅT¡A¨º´N¬O¦Û°Ê¤WÁå¤â¿öªº·¼é¡C½Ñ®a¿ö¼t¦Ê®a»ô»ï¡A¤jÁ|§ë¤J¦Û°Ê¿öªº¬ãµo¡A¦UºØ±M§Q³]p¯É¯Éµoªí¡A¼t°Ó¤£Â_µoªí¦U¦¡¥þ·s¿ö´Ú¡C¦Ó§Ú̥ثe©Òn¤¶²Ðªº IWC Ingenieur ¤uµ{®v¨t¦CµÃ¿ö¡A¨ä¹ê¥¿¬O³o¨âªÑ®É¥N¼é¬y¿Ä·|½ÄÀ»¤§¤Uªº¸g¨å²£ª«¡C¦b¤¶²Ð 1954/55 ¦~¶¡½Ï¥Í¡B¦p¤µ¬O²³¦h¿ö°g¤ß¥Ø¤¤¸g¨åµÃ¿öªº Ingenieur ¤uµ{®v¨t¦CµÃ¿ö¤§«e¡A§Ú̱o¥ý¨Ó½Í½Í Ingenieur ªº¶Ê¥ÍªÌ¡BIWC ªº»s¿ö¤Ñ¤~Albert Pellaton¡C
Ingenieur Cal.852 RG/ 8531/ 8541B Military Style Dial/ 8541B
¸U°ê¿ö©ó1944 ¦~¸u½Ð Albert Pellaton ¨È§B¯S¡E¨Ø°Ç¹y¬°§Þ³NÁ`ºÊ¡A¥Lªº¥Dn¥ô°È´N¦b¬° IWC ¿ö¼t¶}µo¥X¥þ·sªº¦Û°Ê¤WÁå¾÷±ñ¾÷ªä¡A¦]¬°¦Û°Ê¤WÁå¾÷ªä¯à±qÀ¹¿ö¤H¤âµÃªºÄü°Ê¤¤¡A¨ú±o·½·½¤£µ´ªº°Ê¤O¡A¦b·í®É¤@Á|¦¨¬°ÄÁ¿ö¥ý¶i§Þ³Nªº¶H¼x¡C¨Ø°Ç¹yªº¥ô°È«K¬O±N IWC ¿ö¼t¤Þ¶i¡u¦Û°Ê¤WÁå¾÷±ñ¿öªº¦~¥N¡v¡CÄÁ¿ö¬É·í®É¤w¥X²{Y¤z¦Û°Ê¤WÁå¸Ë¸m¡A¦ý Albert Pellaton ¤£¥´ºâ°lÀH¥LÌ¡A¦Ó°í«ù¿í´`¦Û¤vªº²z©À±qÀY¶}©l¬ãµo¡C¹ï©ó¨¬°¤uµ{®vªº¥L¦Ó¨¥¡A¾÷ªä²Â«ªºÂàªû¬J¯à¸ü¦à¤]¯àÂЦà¡A¦]¦¹¨Ø°Ç¹y±N¶}µo«ÂI©ñ¦b¨â¶µ¸Ë¸m¤§¤W¡A ²Ä¤@¶µ¬O¬°Âàªû³]¸m¼u®¡A´£°ª¤F¹B§@ªº¥i¾a©Ê¡A³o¶µ¥©§®ªº¸Ë¸m¸g¹L§ï¨}«á¡A¨Ï¤uµ{®vµÃ¿ö¦¨¬°«e©Ò¥¼¦³ªº°í©T³Ç§@¡C ²Ä¤G¶µ¬O²³æ¤S¦³®Ä²vªº¤j¿û½ü¤WÁå¸Ë¸m¡A ¯à±NÂàªûªº°Ê¤O¶Ç°Ê¨ìµo±ø½L¡A¬°¸U°ê¿ö¨ú±o¿W®a±M§QÅv¡A ±q¦¹«K³QºÙ¬°¨Ø°Ç¹y¤WÁå¸Ë¸m (Pellaton Winding Ratcheted system)¡A¤S³Q¼ÊºÙ¬°°Ö¤ì³¾¤WÁå¾÷ªä¡C¨Ø°Ç¹yµo©úªº¤j¿û½ü¤WÁå¸Ë¸m²¨¥¤§¡A´N¬O¤@Ó»PÂàªû¬Û³sªºÂ÷¤ß¥Y½ü¡A¥i¦b°tÀ¹ªÌ¤âµÃÄü°Ê®É¡A¨Ó¦^ªºÂà°Ê¸Ë¦³¨âªTºu½üªºÂù¿çºb±ì¡C¤j¿û½ü¥i¥H¤£¨üÂàªû²¾°Ê¤è¦Vªº¼vÅT¡A ¤@ÂI¤@ÂIªºÀHµÛ·nÄüºb±ìªºÀº¤öÂà°Ê¡A§â§ó¦h°Ê¤O¶Ç¦Ü¥Dµo±ø½L¡C
Ingenieur Caliber 8541 ¾÷ªä¤º¥i¨£¨ì¨¾ºÏ³nÅK¤º°é¤Î³¡¤À°Ö¤ì³¾¤WÁå¸Ë¸m
n¨Dµ´¹ï§¹¬üªº¤uµ{®v©Ê®æ
¨È§B¯S¡E¨Ø°Ç¹y¬OÓ¹D¦aªº§¹¬ü¥D¸qªÌ¡A¾Ú»¡¥L·|±N¤£º¡·NªºÄÁ¿ö쫬¥´¥]¡A±q¿ö¼tªþªñªº¾ô¤W¥á¶iµÜ¯ôªe¤¤¡A¦^ÀY¦A«·s¶}©l»s§@¯à¹F¨ì¦Û¤vn¨Dªº¤â¿ö¡A¦]¦¹§Y«K¥L¦b 1946 ¦~´NÀò±o¦Û°Ê¤WÁå·s¸Ë¸mªº±M§Q¡A¦ý¥L¨Ã¤£§¹¥þº¡·N¡A«ùÄò¶i¦æ§ï¶i¡Cª½¨ì 1950 ¦~¤~¥¿¦¡µo¥¬ Caliber 81 ¡A¨Ã¦b 1951 ¦~§ï¨}¬° 85 «¬¦Û°Ê¤WÁå¾÷ªä¡AÄ~¦Ó¦b 1952 ¤Î 1953 ¦~¥ý«á±À¥X§óºë´ïªº852«¬¾÷ªä(µL¤é´ÁÅã¥Ü) »P 8521 «¬¾÷ªä (°t¦³¤é´ÁÅã¥Ü) ¡A¦p¤µ¸Ë¸mµÛ³o¨Ç¾÷ªäªº¥j¸³ÄÁ¿ö³£¤w¦¨¬°¦¬Âîa¬Ãµøªº³Ç§@¡C
Ingenieur Caliber 8521
8521 «¬¾÷ªä¦b 1950 ¦~¥Nªì´Á¤@Á|¦¨¬°·í¥NÄÁ¿ö¦yºÝ¬ì§Þªºµ´¨Î¨å½d¡A ¤]¹w¥Ü³oӮɥNªº¤H̹ï·í®É¹ï¬ì§Þ¶i¨Bªº«H¤ß»P´Á±æ¡A¤Ï¬M¥X¦UÃþ¬ì§Þ¤uµ{®v©êªÌº¡µÄ¶¯¤ß§§§Ó¡A ´÷±æ«·s§ï³y¥@¬Éªº¦~¥N®ð¶H¡C¬Û¹ïªº¡AIWC ¤]²`¤Á·NÃѨì¡G¤@´Ú¶H¼x·í¥Nºë¯«ªºµÃ¿ö¥²¶·¨ã³Æ²Á媺¥~«¬ ¡Bºë´ï@¤[ªº°ª¬ì§Þ¤º¦b¡C°ò©ó³oÓì«h¡A¸U°ê¿ö¼tªºÄÁ¿ö®v³Å¨M©w¦b³o´Ú·sªº¦Û°Ê¤WÁå¾÷ªä¤¤¡A±Ä¥Î¨äºX¤U¸g¨å¸¦æûµÃ¿ö Mark XI (1948 ¦~) ªº§Þ³N¡A¥H§ÜºÏ¤º¼h«OÅ@¾÷ªä¤£¨üºÏ³õ¤zÂZ¥]¬A³nÅK´ß ( »P¿ö½L§Î¦¨µ´¨Îªº¶Ç¾É®ÄªG) ¡B¾÷ªäÀô»PIªO¡F¦¹¥~¡A¿ö¼tÁÙ¥H¯à§í¨î¤ÏºÏ©Êªº Durochrom ¦Xª÷»P³Q¹e«C»É¡A»s§@ÀºÁa¸Ë¸mµ²ºcªº¯S®í²Õ¥ó¡AÅýµÃ¿ö¨C¤½¤Øªº§ÜºÏ¤O»´©ö¦a¹F¨ì¤K¸U¦w°ö (80,000 A/m)¡A¨Ï±o¤@¯ë¶È¤Î¥|¤d¤K¦Ê¦w°öªº§ÜºÏ¿ö¬Û§Î¥¢¦â¡A¦Ó³o´N¬O IWC ¶Ç©_ªº Ingenieur ¤uµ{®v¨t¦CµÃ¿ö½Ï¥Íªº½t¥Ñ¡A¤@¥u¯à§¹¬ü¸àÄÀ·í®É¤H̹ï¬ì§Þ¶i¨Bªº«H¤ß»P´Á±æªºµÃ¿ö¡A
¾÷±ñ©M¹q¤l¤u·~ªºµo®i«P¦¨¨¾ºÏ¾÷±ñ¿öªº½Ï¥Í
¶Ç©_ Ingenieur ¤uµ{®v¨t¦CµÃ¿öªì½Ï¥Í
³Ì¦ªº Ingenieur ¤uµ{®vµÃ¿ö©ó 1954 ¦~¦Ü 1955 ¦~¶¡°Ý¥@¡AÁöµM¿ö½L¤W¹¢¦³¶H¼x¬ì§Þªº¹q¥ú¹Ï¼Ë (thunderbolt arrow)¡A¦ý¨ä¿ö´ß©M±½L¨Ã¥¼±Ä¥ÎÃþ¦ü Mark XI ªºx¿ö·®æ³y«¬¡A¤Ï¦Ó±Ä¥Î 50 ¦~¥Nªì´Á¸û¬°¥j¨å¶®Pªº³]p¡A¤ñ¦p»È¦â Pie Pan ±½L©Mª÷Äݱøª¬©Î¼Æ¦r®É¨è¨è«×µ¥¼Ë¦¡¡CÁöµM¥~«¬¨å¶®¡A¦ý¬OIngenieur ¤uµ{®vµÃ¿ö«oµ´¹ï¬O¤@´Ú±j½Õ©Ê¯à©M¬ì§Þªº¤â¿ö¡A°£¤F¬ð¥Xªº¨¾ºÏ©Ê¯à¤§¥~¡A¥¦Á٨㦳°í©T±j®«ªº¾÷ªä©M·¥¨Îªº¨¾¤ô©Ê¡A¾Ú«H¥v¤W²Ä¦ì§¹¦¨Ãkµn¸t¥À®pªº Edmund Hillary Àï¤h«K¦b¦h¦¸ªº¨ä¥L±´ÀI¦æ°Ê¤¤°tÀ¹¹L IWC ªºIngenieur ¤â¿ö¡C
Ingenieur Caliber 85X ¦Û°Ê¤WÁå¾÷ªä¸Ñ»¡¹Ï
«ÝÄò¡K.
Acknowledgement:
We would like to thank Larry Seiden, Marco Schönenberger and David Ter Molen. Most of the pictures about vintage Ingenieurs in this series of articles are quoted from their wonderful website of "THE IWC INGENIEUR". Please make sure to visit their website if you are interested in Ingenieur.
Ingenieur Caliber 852
µoªí©ó Tuesday, March 15 @ 07:00:00 CST ¥Ñ watchbus