東方錶 Orient Watch

東方 (Orient)、精工 (Seiko) 和星辰 (Citizen) 是當今日本手錶的三大品牌，其石英錶一直在台灣佔有相當大的市場佔有率。然而，在機械錶復興的近些年，也生產機械錶的這些日本品牌卻鮮少吸引到台灣機械錶迷關愛的眼神。平心而論，日本錶在台灣人心目中的印象，一直存在著一種錯縱複雜的感受：老一輩仕紳最早接觸時計的大都是日本機械錶；而後1970、80年代，台灣錶界也自然無法置身於橫掃全球的日本石英電子錶的熱潮之外；之後的機械錶復興，大家只注目瑞士錶廠，日本製手錶彷彿被遺忘一般。其實，不管是學習瑞士的製錶技藝或是自行研發新科技，日本錶廠一直以像日本人既洋化、又特立的民族性一般的獨特步調前進著。日本錶行進的路程有時像是亦步亦驅、有時又推倒前浪、掀起狂濤。無論如何，精工錶 (Seiko)、東方錶 (Orient) 對很多台灣中生代而言，好像已經內化為一種長大成人後就可以佩戴手錶的深刻印象，伴隨成長過程裏對未來充滿期望的美麗回憶。這麼多年來，精工錶一直保持著活躍的態勢，倒是東方錶在台灣錶壇沉寂了多年，直到最近才又重振旗鼓，希望找回往日在台的光輝。這一篇文章便是寫來再度引薦您，看看這一個我們曾經熟悉、卻又不太了解的品牌--東方錶 (Orient)。more....


造型古樸，價格低廉、堅固耐用的東方古典錶



在很多發燒級錶迷心中，日製機械錶的形象較差，始終比不上瑞士製機械錶。其中原因之一是1970年代以後日本錶界致力發展石英科技，將機械錶技術轉移海外，例如Citizen移往印度，Orient遠赴巴西等，這些不需要電池的價廉耐用機械錶，自然廣受當地民眾歡迎，有人因此將日本錶看成次級的貨色，等同於第三世界中下階層的生活用品。直到近一、二十年全世界又興起機械錶熱，這些印度、巴西貨這回銷日本及全球，由於其造型古樸，而且價格低廉、堅固耐用，因而也佔有一定的手錶市場。



Orient Automatic Classic Calendar



日本機械錶受錶迷詬病的是構造簡單、技術停留在70年代，令錶迷乏味。然而近代的機械錶熱也促使了精工錶推出全新貴朵機械錶 (Credor) 系列，以最精緻的工藝塑造高品質的新形像 (好比 Toyota 推出 Lexus 的策略一樣)，並加入逆跳指針（星期）等複雜性能設計；而東方錶也推出具世界時區、能量指示性能等的新設計，令錶迷為之耳目一新。雖然價格也相對提高，但相對於其他高級瑞士錶製品，仍具有相當的價質比優勢。一般日常生活中，一只日製機械錶足夠所需，其準確度也可調校至5秒之內。日本機械錶，所費相對不多，是很好的實用貨品。因此對初戴機械錶的人來說從日本製品入手，過陣子若不嫌須上鍊麻煩、較石英錶不準，再計畫選擇較高級的瑞士貨不遲。以機械錶的實用性來評論，日本錶的品質表現一點都不亞於瑞士產品，而且價格更低廉。因此，精工的潛水錶一向最受職業潛水人員的歡迎，而Rolex Submariner則成為業餘潛水人員的炫耀品，真正戴下水的反而少之又少。



Orient M Force World Timer GMT Power Reserve



差點忘了這篇文章的主題是討論東方錶的••••且讓我們回歸到正題來，話說：以一款霸王錶 (King Master) 在台灣打響門號的東方錶，成立於1950年。其前身可以推溯到1901 (昭和34) 年在東京上野市成立的「吉田時計店」以及1920年成立、製造座鐘的東洋時計工廠。東洋時計工廠於1934年也開始分工製造生產手錶，並於1936年特別成立東京日野工廠，專注生產手錶。1950年7月，東洋時計於東京日野市創設「多摩計器股份有限公司」並於1951年更改公司名稱為：Orient Watch Co. , Ltd. 正式開始販售以 Orient為名的之手錶。1956年Orient系列 Dynamic 上市；1957年女款Dias上市；1958年夜光性能上市；1959年Royal Orient高級錶款上市；1960年防水性能錶Swimmer上市；1961年自動機械錶Super-Auto登場；1962年日本第一只日曆自動女用錶登場；1965年100公尺防水錶及萬年日曆性能錶上市，足證東方錶自創立以來，無論是研發或製造，一直保持著世界尖端的步伐。




其實東方錶在台灣已引進有四十年以上的歷史，連代理商都一直是達時公司未曾更換。不過，東方錶以往向來以傳統鐘錶店舖鋪貨的方式行銷，雖然建立有極佳的市場反應和口碑；然而在跨入新世紀後，面對消費族群年輕化與注重品牌形象的外在改變，東方錶也做出快速的因應，無論是錶款設計、行銷策略以及通路都有了令人耳目一新的蛻變。以東方錶近年來推出的主打錶款來看，除了展現時尚創意，以高質感的完工品質配合個性化與流行的設計，迎合年輕消費者的石英錶和演繹個性流行的氛圍與氣質，以優雅美麗的線條與顏色呈現女性纖柔特質的仕女錶款之外，Orient 更秉持悠久而精湛的製錶工藝，繼續製作高品質的複雜機械腕錶，來滿足性能錶迷的需求。例如以1968年面市深受歡迎的 King Master為基礎的後繼錶款和運動錶傾向的 M-Force便都增加了具 GMT世界時區及Power Reserve 能量儲存顯示的複雜性能，其他像方型及酒桶型的手錶，也一一推出顯見其尋求蛻變的決心。





以下是 Watchbus 所選出的幾款目前Orient 的代表性手錶，以品質和價格比來看頗具吸引力，您不妨參考看看：

(A) Rotating Ruler Titanium



自動機芯 / 鈦金屬材質 / 水晶錶鏡/ 5ATM防水性能；內側旋轉圈獨具星期日曆性能，貨幣換算性能 ，乘法除法性能 ，距離換算性能

(B) World Timer GMT Power Reserve



自動錶 /世界時間 / 40小時動能儲存性能 / 精鋼材質 / 水晶錶鏡 / 日期性能 / 10ATM防水性能

(C) Multi Year Calendar



萬年曆自動錶，可以顯示日期、星期、月曆和月份，其日期盤安置方式相當獨特。精鋼材質，水晶錶鏡 ，5ATM防水性能，是既具實用性又形色特出的一款錶

(C) M-Force Diver's Watch 200M Power Reserve



具兩百米防水深度的潛水錶，除了日期顯示外，最特別的是附有潛水錶難得一見的動力儲能顯示。自動機芯、精鋼材質錶殼及錶帶、水晶錶鏡 ，外型也相當具有運動氣息。

(D) 其他錶款圖像選錄

Automatic Automatic Automatic Global Watch King Master

Automatic M Force Power Reserve 100M M Force Powere Reserve Inner Rotating Month Calendar M Force Power Reserve Titanium
發表於 Tuesday, July 22 @ 00:00:00 CST 由 watchbus

Re: 東方錶 Orient Watch (分數： 1)
由 Margaret 於 Tuesday, July 22 @ 13:28:40 CST
(張貼者資訊 | 寄私人訊息)
看了這一篇，更喜歡精工了。



Re: 東方錶 Orient Watch (分數： 1)
由 JjohnN 於 Tuesday, November 09 @ 02:14:12 CST
(張貼者資訊 | 寄私人訊息)
請問版主及各位
Orient Automatic Classic Calendar
這一款MODEL全名是什麼呢?
網絡上找不到, 謝謝!!!



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Re: 東方錶 Orient Watch (分數： 1)
由 Quenho 於 Tuesday, June 04 @ 14:09:51 CST
(張貼者資訊 | 寄私人訊息)
其實我不是太明白，“貨幣換算性能 ，乘法除法性能 ，距離換算性能”是怎麼回事？



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Re: 東方錶 Orient Watch (分數： 1)
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Re: 東方錶 Orient Watch (分數： 1)
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Re: 東方錶 Orient Watch (分數： 1)
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Re: 東方錶 Orient Watch (分數： 1)
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Re: 東方錶 Orient Watch (分數： 1)
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Re: 東方錶 Orient Watch (分數： 1)
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