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kwsiu
進階會員 |
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flyback
歐美特派員 |
Wow, I guess I'm really missing out after not coming here for a few days (sorry my beloved baseball team just won a champion... first one in 86 years!!!).
Some of you may know, I'm a big fan of indie watchmakers, b/c a lot of them take watchmaking to the next level. I haven't been a big fan of Speake-Marin yet, b/c I haven't found the style attractive just yet. However, one of the cool things about indie watchmaker is, you really have to study them before commiting and you'll start falling in love while reading about them. Most of them are expensive, b/c you are mostly paying for their time and labor. And most of them don't advertise very much or try hard to "sell" their products. In fact, one of the criteria to join AHCI is "being financially independent". They have to pay for everything themselves, so you definitely won't see celebrity endorsement here. They are all very different and have different philosophies. Vincent Calabrese, for example, makes very very interesting watches, but you really have to read through his website to understand what he's trying to do. And b/c of that, I didn't like his watches at first glance, b/c they looked weird to me. After reading about him and his watches, it just blew me away!! Not only he makes lots of fun complications, he wants to offer them at an affordable price. How cool is that? Anyway, without trying to bore every living watchbus member to death, here's a few points from my limited experience: 1. You really have to forget about those ETA movements and start learning what's inside. For example, Paul Gerber turned a peseux 7001 (ETA) handwinding movement to automatic with a patented twin rotor. You don't get that from other manufactures . Or Vincent Calabrese can turn a quartz movement into a Mona Lisa Strip show. The creativity behind these movements exceeds the general sense on non-in-house movements. 2. If you live outside of Switzerland or not near their agents, you really don't get to check out the watches. If you need more information (especially on case size), research and contact the watchmakers directly. You should even draw out the watch on paper and put it on your wrist and make sure the size is ok. 3. If you are not sure how much you want it, or if you are not planning to keep it, please think twice and make sure you know what you are getting yourself into. The 2nd hand market is not kind to these watches just yet (especially in Asia, but Singapore is fine). The purists seems to be the best market place at this point. Most people don't know about them, and a lot of them don't even want to know. You can probably find a few potential buyers, but you may end up holding them for a lot longer than you want. If your budget is limited, then you may want to stay away for now. 4. Most of them are not suited for everyday wear. Well, I guess it depends on what you do. If you are a banker or a lawyer, and you have to wear a suit to work everyday, then you don't have to worry about it. My point is, I prefer not to wear them everyday. 5. Service seems to be a big concern among collectors. Again, you have to know what you are getting yourself into. Any special complications are not meant for your local watchmakers to temper with. So your best bet is to wait and send it back to the creator. Either way, you are going to assume some risk on not being able to service it in a timely manner, and you have to pray for the watchmaker to stay healthy too. 6. Now, once you get the watch, you'll forget about point 1-5. It's a truely amazing feeling. Can't really explain it. Hope it helps. |
calatravayang
榮譽版面管理員 |
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TED
資深會員 |
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