剛剛在paneristi 看到一篇文章跟大家分享
原文如下
"Just found Konrad's original comparison between
September 30 2007, 7:37 AM
The 618 and 6498..Great stuff...Hope it's OK to repeat it here....
Unfortunately the illustrations didn't load across with the text..
but the final important three paragraphs say it all...
Military Watches: Movements for Rolex, Panerai and fakes
June 21 2006 at 3:29 PM K o n r a d K n i r i m (Login kfranzk)
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Hallo friends of Military Timepieces especially Panerai,
I owned some original Panerais from WWII. (see my strong wrists).
Their cases were produced by Rolex, the movement by Cortebert,
supplied to Italian and German Navy by Panerai,
supplier of navy instruments.
The Officine Panerai was dead and not producing watches up to the 80s or 90s,
then they started new and lost again.
Then a South African owned luxury supplier bought the brand and put a hell of a lot of money into brand marketing.
And thus the prices for the old ones went up astronomically.
And the new ones? Are they 'hommages',
no because of the trademark rights,
yes because they have nothing to do with the original Rolex/Cortebert/Panerai except their design and the brand ownership.
Here are two originals and see the prices going up!
Here are a lot of very good 'hommages' i.e. fakes!
They are good watches, but not Panerai!
I think its necessary to make clear the different movements and their
derivates for Rolex and Panerai big divers watches.
Here I show some 16 '''
(34mm) movements related to Rolex, Panerai and fakes:
- top: 2 Rolex cal. 618 made by Cortebert exclusively for Rolex in the 30s and 40s.
- 2.row: 2 Cortebert 616 only bridges and finish are different
- 3.row: left Molnia 616 licensed by Cortebert but heavily faked with engravings,
and right Unitas 6498 (made in Asia??) for Panerai fakes!!
- bottom: 2 Panerai movements, luxury derivates of the Unitas cal.
6498. The right one has changed bridges and swan neck adjustment.
==> You see 60 years of a handwound 16''' movement for small pocket
watches or big wrist watches.
The first time I realize, that these Unitas/Eta
movements must be from the same Cortebert base.
Look at the wheel axes and screws, they all are at the same placce.
Finish and shape has changed but the base design is still obvious.
In the 70s the company Cortebert was taken over by Omega,
and Omega is today part of the Swatch Group,
as it is Eta and Unitas.
So obviously Unitas did rework the Cortebert 616/618 into the
Unitas 6498 and its derivates.
In the end of the 80s I have been in the little town Cortebert in the Swiss Jura
and all the big factory buildings were empty, gone to Omega in Biel.
. Gruesse/Regards/Salute K o n r a d K n i r i m
. konrad.knirim@t-online.de"
轉自http://www.network54.com/Forum/353391/thread/1191122767/Talking+about+a+limited%2C+47mm+base+got+me+thinking%2C%2C%2C%2C+Panerai%2C+are+you+listening----
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gst
資深會員 |
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BB
白金會員 |
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gst
資深會員 |
不好意思小弟不是很會翻譯而且中文打得很慢
所以用自己的話把以上文章解釋一下 在panerai還是生產軍錶的年代 panerai出錶給軍方 它所用的錶殼是勞力士生產的,機心是由cortebert提供 當panerai賣給南非珠寶商之後(richmont??!) 筆者認為新的錶跟舊的其實是兩種不同的東西 因為新的公司只是買走了配那海的名字跟設計 所以 新配那海不等於 rolex 或 舊配那海 或cortebert 那cortebert又去了哪裡? 被omega收購 而omega其實是屬於swatch group 的 同屬於這間公司的還有頂頂有名的 Eta 跟 Unitas 筆者又做了許多的比較 旁敲側擊的去深入而得出了一個答案 現在配那海大量使用的這一枚 ETA ( 好像叫是opXIII) 根本是從當初的cortebert機心改過來的 因為所有的排列組合其實都是幾乎一模依樣 只是將組合的金屬片或齒輪型狀修改過 所以 得出的答案是 rolex跟cortebert跟eta做出來給配那海的這個movement 基本上是同一個東西 不同廠生產 神話嗎? |
cai678
資深會員 |
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BB
白金會員 |
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ahsiang_2002
資深會員 |
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ebear
資深會員 |
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ahsiang_2002
資深會員 |
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gst
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al
終極會員 |
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