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O! It Turns Back:勞力士 Rolex 推出全新 Oyster Perpetual Dayjust Turn-O-Graph
相較於過去勞力士 Rolex 給人穩健得幾近亙久不變的形象,勞力士在今年 Basel 錶展的表現不由得讓人為之驚豔。以它的長青錶款 Cosmograph Daytona 為例,今年所推出的 18 K 白金鍊帶錶款116509,其中央計時秒針、計時副面盤指針與內錶圈皆以鮮紅色來呈現,雖然機芯仍採用 2000 年所推出的 Cal.4130 自動上鍊計時碼錶機芯,但特殊色彩的出現,尤其是鮮豔躍動的紅色,鶴立在大多以不鏽鋼、K 金與黑、白面盤為主的 Daytona 款式中,不免引起勞力士錶迷的格外注意。

在大多數錶迷的心目中,勞力士的最高價值就在於精準耐操,款式不需多、變化不必大,卻能因有效地控制質、量,並保有自己的特色。去年潛航者 Submariner 50 周年紀念錶的翠綠色錶圈,小小的改變就攫獲眾多勞迷的眼光,今年 Daytona 推出難得的 18 K 白金錶殼成色,又錦上添花地加上了年輕的紅指針(70 年代曾經出現、今年再現江湖),難怪會讓更多的錶迷為之瘋狂。More....


點擊此縮圖可觀看放大原圖

今年的 Cosmograph Daytona 紅色指針添加運動風和速度感


紅色魅力:全新 Turn-O-Graph (TOG)

勞力士手錶今年另一個更令人矚目的焦點,則是為一款被台灣錶界俗稱為「爬山虎」的 Oyster Perpetual Datejust 系列的 Turn-O-Graph 推出全新改款的 116262、116263 和16264,用的雖是勞力士基本的 Cal.3135 自動上鍊機芯,但全新 Turn-O-Graph 的錶殼、錶帶和面盤等都經過大幅的更新和改良,尤其是配上大膽而耀眼的鮮紅色中心式大秒針和日期數字,難怪一發表就擄獲眾多錶迷的心。在勞力士耀眼的運動錶明星,如 Explorer、Submariner 和 GMT Master 等錶款的身旁,就款式 Turn-O-Graph 的身影向來顯得平凡而靜默。然而,仔細推就 Turn-O-Graph 的緣起,其實不難發現 Turn-O-Graph 正是 Rolex 進入所謂 Utility Watch 或 Professional Watch 領域的奠基之作,在勞力士的歷史堥膃頃炟瓣@般、不可抹滅的象徵意義。


點擊此縮圖可觀看放大原圖

Turn-O-Graph 116264


勞力士運動錶款的始祖:Turn-O-Graph

1953 年在 Basel 錶展首次發表的 Oyster Perpetual Datejust Turn-O-Graph Ref. 6202,其設計靈感的來源其實是計時技術的一種新概念:勞力士在原有的蠔式錶殼上加上了創新的可旋轉式計時錶圈,使得 Turn-O-Graph 立即具有類似計時碼錶的計時性能,而在其可旋轉計時錶圈的頂點則標記有有一個三角形記號,代表著零點的位置,這也是 Turn-O-Graph 命名的由來。Turn-O-Graph 6202 相較於當代的其他計時碼錶具有兩個明顯的優勢,一個是它的堅固的蠔式錶殼耐震抗磨損,另一個當然是它因為不需要計時按鈕,理所當然具備了更好的防水性能。




Turn-O-Graph 6202


Turn-O-Graph 6202 不但是勞力士第一只具有可旋轉式計時錶圈的手錶,更是日後 Submariner、Yachtmaster 和 GMT Master 發展的基礎所在。以 1954 年發表的 Submariner Ref. 6204 為例,它的可旋轉式計時外圈和 Turn-O-Graph 6202 幾乎一模一樣,其計時外圈的 60 分鐘,每一分鐘都有刻度,和今日的 Submariner 只有前十五分鐘的每一分鐘才有刻度,明顯不同。事實上,Submariner 6204 和 Turn-O-Graph 6202 的差別幾乎只在於面盤和錶冠的設計不同罷了。而最早的 GMT Master Ref. 6542,基本上也是沿用 Turn-O-Graph 6202 的外型,採用 Caliber 1065 機芯,加具 24 小時時間指示性能,並且第一次添加上了勞力士日期放大鏡而成的新品種。




Turn-O-Graph 6309 "Thunderbird"


Thunderbird 雷鳥

Turn-O-Graph 6202 只在 50 年代生產了短暫一段時間,數量大概僅有數千只,很快被暱稱為 Thunderbird Dayjust「雷鳥」的 Turn-O-Graph Ref. 6309 所取代。Dayjust Ref. 6309 之所以有這樣的暱稱,顧名思義當然和美國空軍特技飛行小組 USAF Thunderbird 有關。成立於1953年的美國空軍特技飛行小組 Thunderbird 在 1956 年將一只 Turn-O-Graph Ref. 6309 致贈給隊上的教練、著名的空戰英雄 Don Ferris 作為紀念,自此勞力士的此一系列 Turn-O-Graph 就被崇拜飛行和英雄的美國人暱稱為 Thunderbird了。


點擊此縮圖可觀看放大原圖

Turn-O-Graph 1625


Turn-O-Graph 6309 採用的是 1065 機芯,壓克力鏡面玻璃配備有放大日期視窗,而其計時外圈也有了重大的轉變。Thunderbird Ref.6309 和最初的 6202 最大的差別在於它的計時錶圈改成了有點類似 Yachtmaster 的金屬鏤刻式外圈,並取消了每一分鐘都有刻度的方式。這樣的外圈設計一直沿用在後續的 Turn-O-Graph Thunderbird 系列錶款之中,也和也沿用 6202 式外圈的 Submariner 後繼錶款產生了外型上的重大差別,而之後配備藍寶石水晶玻璃的 Thunderbird 1625、16253、16263、 16264和16268 等後繼錶款也大抵都被歸類為偏屬 Dress Watch 的定位,稍離了當年 6202 的運動錶調性,也因而讓大多數錶迷忽略了 Turn-O-Graph 6202 堪稱勞力士運動錶王朝始祖的事實。


點擊此縮圖可觀看放大原圖

Turn-O-Graph 116263 (Courtesy of 1975)


勞力士今年推出大改款的 Turn-O-Graph Ref.116261、116263 和 116264,當然並非單純是 Turn-O-Graph 舊錶款的改款而已,而顯然有樹立新一系列運動錶款的態勢。另一方面,勞力士也藉改款的 Turn-O-Graph 展示近年研發的成果,想必未來會推演到其他的錶款上:新款 Turn-O-Graph 的可旋轉式計時錶圈採用了新研發出來的棘輪系統,旋轉時更加滑順流暢。它的 Jubilee 金屬錶帶採用 SEL (Solid End Links) 鍊帶,錶扣也經過大幅改良,佩戴起來更加舒適。新款 Turn-O-Graph 的面盤內圈刻鏤有 ROLEX 記號,這也是勞力士再度創新的技術表現。外型變化當然是 Turn-O-Graph 此次改款眾所注目的焦點所在,鮮豔突出的紅色中心大秒針讓人無法不投以艷羨的眼神,而面盤上的 Turn-O-Graph 文字也選用紅色標記,重現令人懷念的 Red Submariner 的風采。更叫人觸動莫名的是,勞力士還為新款 Turn-O-Graph 錦上添花的加上了全紅色的日期數字,這更是勞力士前所未有的大膽嘗試。


點擊此縮圖可觀看放大原圖

新款 Turn-O-Graph 的錶帶和帶釦都有相當的改良(Courtesy of 1975)


看完我們所為你做的關於 Turn-O-Graph 歷史演進和全新錶款的簡單介紹,相信你心中的部分迷惑應該得到了解答。只是不知道你是不是和我們一樣興起一個更大的問號,那就是:明年,勞力士會再帶給我們什麼樣的驚喜呢?


點擊此縮圖可觀看放大原圖

新款 Turn-O-Graph 面盤內側錶圈刻鏤有 ROLEX 記號 (Courtesy of 1975)


發表於 Wednesday, December 08 @ 07:00:00 CST 由 watchbus

 
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Re: O! It Turns Back:勞力士 Rolex 推出全新 Oyster Perpetual Dayjust Turn-O-Graph (分數: 1)
由 Jackal 於 Friday, January 07 @ 11:40:01 CST
(張貼者資訊 | 寄私人訊息)
請問各位先進,有沒有人知道第一隻多少錢?

謝謝~~



Re: O! It Turns Back:勞力士 Rolex 推出全新 Oyster Perpetual Dayjust Turn-O-Graph (分數: 1)
由 BarryHo 於 Friday, May 13 @ 09:43:15 CST
(張貼者資訊 | 寄私人訊息)
so beautiful.



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