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WatchBus 手錶討論區 :: 觀看文章 - [分享]Cartier - 翻轉坦克(多圖)
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WatchBus 手錶討論區 首頁 » Pictures 留影與分享

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[分享]Cartier - 翻轉坦克(多圖) 前往頁面 1, 2, 3  下一頁
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540
進階會員
進階會員


註冊時間: Oct 12, 2006
文章: 464
來自: 地球村

發表發表於: 星期日 九月 21, 2008 3:47 am    文章主題: [分享]Cartier - 翻轉坦克(多圖) 引言回覆


Cartier,雖然也屬於「集團」錶,卻是小弟少數會去推崇的腕錶品牌之一。原因很簡單,雖然台灣大多數的人會覺得它不過是「時尚錶」,他卻與其他 Fashion Watch 如是 Channel、Dior 有天壤之別。它擁有「歷史」。

該品牌是「腕錶」的先鋒,甚至比 Rolex 還要早,就已經把「錶」置於手腕上,而不是口袋裡。(「腕錶」革命第一槍 ...

Cartier 一直是以「設計」為出發點,而不是以「機芯」;畢竟它是珠寶商,其強項是珠寶設計。雖然是珠寶商,一百多年來,其多項腕錶經典作品,也已經於錶界佔有很重要之地。Cartier 在珠寶界的地位,溫沙公爵曾說:... "Joaillier des Rois, Roi des Joailliers" (Jeweller to Kings, King of Jewellers") - Prince of Walse.

小弟在前文 (link to old topic: Patek Philippe 的「大」趨勢),也提到 Cartier,是如今少數不為「大錶趨勢」而「一面倒」的品牌之一。

沒錯該品牌自「石英革命」後用了不少石英機芯(這是機械錶愛好者最詬病的一項),不過畢竟它是以「設計」為出發點,「美」才是其品牌文化之重點。考慮其多年來對腕錶世界外觀設計之貢獻,它是本人會考慮長期收藏的 Jewelry Watch "Exception"。

小弟之前曾分享個人收藏的唯一 JLC(link to old topic: JLC "Sincere五十週年慶" 限量款),這次要分享的「唯一 Cartier」,是前款 JLC 的「兄弟」,Reverso 之同宗設計:Tank Basculante 翻轉坦克。

Tank Basculante 翻轉坦克並不是新款設計,而是自 1931 就已問世。小弟喜歡的這一款,是因為夠簡單、夠薄!以目前的機械錶收藏,該款是最簡單的雙針設計,卻能帶來很多快樂時光的一項收藏。該款是手上鍊機械錶,總厚度只有 6mm。

Specification:
Steel Rectangular Reverso style case with & front sapphire glass.
Silvered guillochei dial with black Roman Nos. & blued steel hands.
Fitted with Croco Leather Strap & deployment buckle.
Case: 38 X 25.5 mm, 6 mm thick
Movement: Frederic Piguet 6.10. (Cartier 編號:060; 2.1 mm thick, 21,600bph)
每日上滿鍊一次,平均日秒差 + 3 ~ 5 秒。(以薄機芯來說,已經是 surprisingly good...)

以下 Time Zone Mr. Walt Odets 有對該錶和機芯之詳細介紹。
Link to: Timezone Walt Odets Cartier Basculante Review

以上簡單介紹。

上菜了...:

(1)
標準 Dress Watch


(2)
和手腕比例大小協調


(3)


(4)


(5)
Easily slip into your cuff!


(6)


(7)


(8)


(9)


(10)
翻轉過程


(11)
錶中央翻轉


(12)
大龍頭直於12 點方向


(13)
翻轉完畢


(14)
錶背向上,合一。該錶背另有透視機芯設計。


(15)
折疊扣


(16)
Cartier 標準 buckle


(17)
中央龍頭「穿透」錶底


(18)
特殊折疊扣,無穿洞皮錶帶設計


(19)


(20)

_________________
「蛛絲馬跡皆學問,落花流水皆文章。」


540 在 星期二 九月 23, 2008 12:43 am 作了第 1 次修改
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KevH
初級會員
初級會員


註冊時間: Dec 02, 2006
文章: 46
來自: South

發表發表於: 星期日 九月 21, 2008 4:39 am    文章主題: 引言回覆

感謝大大精湛的分享,此帖又重新燃起小弟想要購入它的欲望。
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peicheng
白金會員
白金會員


註冊時間: Sep 21, 2007
文章: 2473
來自: 雨都

發表發表於: 星期日 九月 21, 2008 7:40 am    文章主題: 引言回覆

感謝大大圖文並茂的分享 裝白ㄘ
_________________
需要的不多,想要的太多.

擁有的多,不一定讓人滿足;
擁有的少,不一定讓人貧乏.
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Chuang
資深會員
資深會員


註冊時間: Dec 16, 2003
文章: 828
來自: 台北市

發表發表於: 星期日 九月 21, 2008 10:44 am    文章主題: 引言回覆

好文,好錶!
_________________

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vul329
白金會員
白金會員


註冊時間: Oct 28, 2006
文章: 4786
來自: 台北城

發表發表於: 星期日 九月 21, 2008 11:02 am    文章主題: 引言回覆

小弟也對翻轉坦克頗有喜好
只是對cartier機械表的洗油費用有點疑慮...

看了前輩的圖文
讓小弟頗有想購入的衝動!!
不知可否請前輩PM買入價格及折扣數!!
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macallan1940
終極會員
終極會員


註冊時間: Oct 26, 2006
文章: 5506

發表發表於: 星期日 九月 21, 2008 11:10 am    文章主題: 引言回覆

經典復刻.優美外型

Cartier 在外型設計的前衛.創新.細膩.....是視覺上的一大享受

感謝540兄的精彩分享
耍酷
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pppleo
白金會員
白金會員


註冊時間: Jan 30, 2005
文章: 2709

發表發表於: 星期日 九月 21, 2008 12:44 pm    文章主題: 引言回覆

這支是經典,延續1930年代和積家合作時期的設計,晚期透背的品種更美,裡面用上的FP機芯打磨精緻,把他蓋起來有點可惜....
2000年前後,這支錶紅到不行,有多種材質和裝飾,千禧年紀念款式更曾被大大炒作過....
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540
進階會員
進階會員


註冊時間: Oct 12, 2006
文章: 464
來自: 地球村

發表發表於: 星期日 九月 21, 2008 1:53 pm    文章主題: 引言回覆

有朋友 PM 反應連接到 Timezone 的 link 出問題,就於此直接轉載 Mr. Walt Odets 之機芯分析文章。

FORM FOLLOWS FORM: THE CARTIER TANK BASCULANTE
BY WALT ODETS

Cartier is not a company that leaps immediately to mind for technical achievement in the field of horology. Louis Cartier, heir to the family jewelry firm founded in 1846, was, however, a design pioneer in luxury goods, including the wristwatch. Although never a movement manufacturer, Cartier has made a very significant contribution to horology by virtue of the sheer prowess of the company's design work. Historically, it was Cartier and Rolex who defined the physical form of the 20th century wristwatch.


The contemporary Tank Basculante, above.
A Cartier travel clock from 1931, left.

Rooted in a long tradition of folding or reversing wristwatches, miniature travel clocks, and ermeto (or "purse watches"), the Tank Basculante is a contemporary offering from Cartier. Meaning, in English, tilting or tipping tank, the Tank Basculante is offered in stainless steel at a US retail price just under $5,000. It can, like the famous Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso, be reversed on the wrist. But unlike the Reverso, it can also be used as a miniature travel clock on a bedside table.


THE CASE

In keeping with company tradition, the Tank Basculante is first and foremost a piece of design. (Surprisingly, it is also a solid piece of watchmaking, about which more later.) The watch case, proper, is mounted in a frame that is hinged at the lower end to the third piece of the case, the back. Within its frame, the watch case can pivot for reversing or angling. The case is very sturdily constructed and extremely well finished. Though perhaps a tiny cut below the superb finish quality of a Reverso, there is little to complain about in the execution.


The complete case assembly measures 38 by 25.5 millimeters, but is just six millimeters thick. Four massive five-millimeter screws (left) hold the case bezel to the back. Note, also, the sprung ball bearing that locks the case to its frame. Another four screws hold the back section of the case together, and an additional two provide the pivoting of the case in its frame.


The dial is a classic Cartier dial with guilloche, distorted Romans, a minute track, and blued-steel spade hands. It is unmistakably Cartier, and very French.


Like most Cartier wristwatches, the Tank Basculante contains a "secret signature" on the dial.


With only about half the parts of a Reverso case, the Tank Basculante case offers far better water resistance, better shock protection of the movement, and a more easily-serviceable design. Shown left, the crown is supported by a massive case tube and the stem is sealed by an O-ring set into a groove in the tube (arrow). The two piece stem is
extraordinarily massive, no doubt because of the unusual position of the crown and the possibility of abuse by those unfamiliar.


The blue cabochon (Cartier does not call it a sapphire) adorns the tab used to lift the case frame from the back. Perhaps it is French crystal.



THE MOVEMENT

Perhaps unexpectedly, the Tank Basculante is not simply a "jewelry watch." It contains a first-grade movement.

Illustrated left, the movement is nothing less than a Frederic Piguet caliber 6.10. A diminutive 6.5 lignes (15.2 millimeters) and 2.1 millimeters thick, the movement runs at 21,600 beats per hour in 21 jewels. While not the form movement we might have hoped for in a rectangular watch, the Piguet is nevertheless a first-class job, through and through. It is, for example, a much finer, much more sophisticated piece of work than Jaeger LeCoultre's basic Reverso movement, the caliber 846.


Close inspection of the keyless works reveals the fine craftsmanship of the Piguet. Note the unusual separate (and beautifully executed) minute wheel cover (arrow).


Instead of Geneva stripes, the top plate is decorated with repetitions of the Cartier logo. This is embossed (rather than engraved), and is the single cost-saving effort apparent in the movement.

Cartier calls the 6.10 a Cartier caliber 060, and the Piguet name and caliber markings are no where evident on the movement.

With its fanciful scalloping, the wheel train bridge might have come from no one but Piguet. The wheel train contains an extra wheel ( arrow) between the third and fourth wheel which rotates once each two minutes. I believe that this may have been done to properly position the fourth wheel at six o'clock (to allow for subsidiary seconds) without compromising the size of the balance or mainspring barrel.


The three-spoked Glucydur balance wheel is protected by KIF shock absorbers. The flat balance spring utilizes a simple regulator of notable quality.



CONCLUSIONS

The Tank Basculante offers a piece of tradition, considerable charm, and surprising quality throughout. The design integrity of this watch is woefully lacking in the majority of contemporary Swiss watches. The Tank Basculante is also useful and comfortable on the wrist.

If there is a caveat about this watch, it lies in the marketing behind the watch. The red leather owner's booklet suggests no less that four times that the watch be serviced by Cartier. Indeed, on changing the leather strap, the owner is advised to allow a Cartier agent to do it, "in order to maintain the validity of the Cartier International Guarantee."


As if to make their point, the bottom strap screw (but not the top) was impossible to remove without destroying it. I believe that this was deliberate (done with high-strength Locktite), and it required making a new screw on the lathe.

Like Vacheron Constantin and Jaeger LeCoultre in the US, Cartier has been in the vanguard of attempting to monopolize service on its watches by selling no parts to independent watchmakers--not even strap screws or other, simple external parts.

If you like the Tank Basculante, be prepared to meet your local Cartier service agent sometime in the next few years. Or, better yet, treat yourself to a Tank Basculante and watchmaker's lathe at the same time.

_________________
「蛛絲馬跡皆學問,落花流水皆文章。」


540 在 星期日 九月 21, 2008 2:05 pm 作了第 2 次修改
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ㄚ銘
終極會員
終極會員


註冊時間: Mar 12, 2005
文章: 6568
來自: 大高雄

發表發表於: 星期日 九月 21, 2008 1:57 pm    文章主題: 引言回覆

這支實品質感真的不錯
小弟朋友也有一支... 耍酷

_________________
人生重要的三點...
放開一點-簡單一點-單純一點-集滿三點.就會開心一點
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Moris-Chen
白金會員
白金會員


註冊時間: Feb 04, 2008
文章: 3126
來自: 台北市與台中市

發表發表於: 星期日 九月 21, 2008 6:12 pm    文章主題: 引言回覆

nice watch. 耍酷
_________________
面對它,接受它,處理它,放下它!
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